An Italian journalist Luciano Pignataro revealed that the secret behind the flavorsome Cilento cuisine is the absence of a clock. I investigate this secret and wonder why in Malta we still have not embarked on a slow food journey.

At the mention of the word Cilento or Trentinara I always get baffled looks. No one seems to have ever heard of it, not even the Italians themselves. Well, neither had I until sometime ago!

I started discovering Trentinara and the Cilento area when my parents, at the time on holiday in Southern Italy, met this Italian couple by chance – Alfonso and Cristina. The couple run this cosy and tiny tavern called Lo Vottaro situated in the historical centre of the quaint comune di Trentinara. My parents instantly fell in love with their restaurant and the town which hosts it. The food which Alfonso and Cristina so passionately prepare was excellent bait for my epicurean father. Therefore, it was not long before I was convinced to visit Trentinara.

The unspoilt ground of Cilento, in the province of Salerno, forms part of the Campania region in Southern Italy. The area is hushed and undiscovered, as if kept a secret from the rest of Italy and to tourists. Trentinara, a town situated close to Paestum in the Cilento area, is dominated by a placid and passive aura. There is tranquility around as if time stopped a couple of centuries ago. Yet, the feeling is positive especially as you realise that the locals cling bravely to their old traditions and customs and have high esteem of their products and territory, an attitude which we Maltese are still coming to terms with..

Walking through the tight alleys of Trentinara feels like being in the Middle Ages. The cobbled pavements were definitely not made for women wearing high heels, not that you see many of them around! Few inhabitants populate this hilltop town, many of them farmers and producers of local specialties like extra virgin olive oil, buffalo mozzarella, goats’ cheese, and cured meats. Alfonso explained that many locals still live a limited and traditional lifestyle; many women are housewives or work in fields together with their husbands. Men break their daily routine downing Vecchia Romagna (an Italian brandy) in the bars around the town. Alfonso, jokingly but truthfully describes the locals, especially the veterans, as penny-pinchers, who rarely travel away from Trentinara, and are oblivious to fashion, innovation and technology.

Yet, when modern Alfonso landed in Trentinara he wanted to preserve the past traditions. He acquired a couple of old residences in the core of Trentinara and restored them to their original medieval state creating a warm and rustic dining area and also spacious rooms which can be rented as holiday homes. As soon as you enter the tavern you are welcomed by an appetizing display of delicacies prepared as part of the menu of the day. At Lo Vottaro there is no fixed menu or wine list. Everything is put together freshly for the day and according to season. Ingredients used are procured from local farmers and suppliers. Herbs, mushrooms and wild edible kitchen essentials are hand-picked by Alfonso and Cristina during their regular walks in the woods.

The wooden tables, terracotta glasses and plates, and the decorative food items appended to the ceiling create a hospitable atmosphere.  The glowing fireplace is not only a source of heat but also a cooking hob for calamari, wild boar sausages, and fresh eggs cooked on the open fire and served with grated truffle. Cristina is in charge of the kitchen. You will find no weighing scales in her cooking area where she, with her swift and smooth moves, prepares everything from scratch. Her recipes and measurements are stored in her mind. She grows her own vegetables and herbs, rears her own chickens, and a pig. She preserves fruit, makes jams, cures meat and she even bottles her own olive oil!

The menu is usually presented in the form of a mixed antipasto, a soup, the first course, a main dish and then a selection of desserts. Many dishes served contain typical Cilento specialties which are part of the Mediterranean diet, found to be, by the American nutritionist Ancel Keys, a healthier option. .  During our stay we managed to taste a selection of cheeses including buffalo mozzarella  aged goat’s cheese, a variety of cured meats, an artichoke parmiggiana, ricotta soufflé and of course the home-baked bread. As first courses we enjoyed ravioli stuffed with ricotta, fusilli with broccoli and clams, cavatelli with fresh tomato sauce and porcini mushrooms. For main courses we were endowed with, wild boar cooked in tomato sauce, oven-baked rabbit and roasted kid.  To soothe our sweet tooth: rum savarin, pear and ricotta tart, wild berries jam tart, buffalo ricotta with acacia honey.

At Lo Vottaro food is a serious matter. This tavern is the refuge of people in search of traditional recipes, natural food and genuine delicacies.  Alfonso and Cristina work hard to guarantee the use of fresh local products, carefully grown or chosen personally by them to ensure their taste is not marred by added chemicals or preservatives. Eating at Lo Vottaro is like eating at your grandmother’s house when everything was simpler yet with particular characteristics, distinct taste and healthy nutritional values. Once you experience Lo Vottaro few other restaurants will provide you with the same palatable satisfaction.

In Malta, the time has arrived to pause our clock and embark on a journey to discover the edible treasures of the Maltese territory. Local produce needs to be safeguarded and promoted to rekindle the traditions of local cuisine and ensure a slow and healthy food style for the new generations. Maltese citizens should be inspired by the work of Alfonso and Cristina and insist on eating local dishes and products. Would love to see a “Lo Vottaro” on our islands!

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Initially it felt like being a participant of some Big Brother show. We had to share a bedroom with other group members, help to prepare dinner, and work in teams on assignments. On my first night I felt slightly homesick.

Twelve female participants from all over the world congregated together in one dreamlike place – Il Salicone villa in Pistoia, Tuscany. The surrounding auburn scenery, the green cypress trees and the early morning dew set the scene for three fully loaded days of food writing and photography.

Under the tuition of four exceptional instructors we spent our weekend acquiring food writing skills and practicing our photographic abilities. Meeta K. Wolff and Ilva Berretta were our photography mentors. Jeanne Horak-Druiff and Jamie Schler guided our writing techniques.

Our first gathering was a quick lunch of fusilli all’arrabiata. Soon we started off our workshop by introducing ourselves within a five minute time frame. To remember all the names, the countries of origin, and the blog’s name was a hard step. But, by the end of the workshop it all started to be more familiar. Well, Facebook search always helps to put a face to the name or rather a name to the face!

We kicked off with the writing part: ‘looking at a blank page isn’t easy!’ yet that’s what all writers do before getting started. Writing is a process where you create your own voice; learn vocabulary, expressions, similes and metaphors.  Read, read, read – reading makes your writing improve, it helps you get your ideas and your inspirations. Write, write, write – writing frequently and regularly gets you going and practising. With writing you have to capture your audience and bring them in a parallel world where you evoke their emotions and make it feel all real. So, our first exercise was to write about a recent dining experience. Then, we had to tackle the restaurant review from another perspective – I had to rewrite the review as if I hold a grudge towards the restaurant chef. Found that quite challenging!

It was then photography time. Our abilities were immediately tested – we had to create a setting with the various props and ingredients available and shoot as many photos as we like until we got to the notion of what makes a good and what makes a bad photo. First try was quite a hurdle; however practice was backed with theory and after dinner we gathered again in our training room and heard all about aperture, white balance, shutter speed and ISO. I understood the importance of natural light for food photography and the props and material we can use to bounce or absorb light. Finally I got to terms with the A and S sign on my camera.

We woke up the next day to a delicious breakfast prepared by the Tuscan lady in charge of Il Salicone  and continued our morning focusing on the senses and the importance of these five feelings when the talk is about food. Our main assignment was due after our lunchtime visit to the winery where we enjoyed wine tasting and indulged into some Tuscan products including a selection of cured hams, pecorino cheese with honey and the traditional Ribollita soup. Also some jam tarts and almond cantuccini dipped into an aged red wine. The rest of our second afternoon was dedicated to the creation of a blog post with photos which had to relate about the lunch or winery visit.  I focused on the simple yet irresistible Tuscan food and got positive feedback from the experts for my piece.

As our last day approached I was already getting nostalgic. Yet, our tutors soon caught our attention and huddled us together to help us understand the required mood and style for writing for a magazine. To warm up we were instructed to write paragraphs with limited word count. In 30 words I had to write a tasting note for a wine. Then it was time for the killer openings, we needed to formulate three sentences which get readers to read the rest of the article. Being constrained with length is not a piece of cake.

The photography part on our last day dealt with post processing and use of programs like Lightroom for editing. We also spoke about setting the mood – a dark or light mood, the focus, composition, colours and patterns. This intensive session was followed by lunch – we needed some carbohydrates to feed our minds and delicious pizza it was!

Our main assignment for the rest of the day followed. We had to write an article about ‘Eating and Drinking in Tuscany’ for a magazine. Luckily I was assigned Saveur magazine – one of those food magazines I read regularly and with which I can identify my writing style. We worked to impress. With the assistance of my Italian team mate we created the setting for a photo of fresh pasta and another one featuring the Castagnaccio, a Tuscan dessert made from chestnut flour. I concentrated on the writing and produced an informative Saveur style piece of writing about the traditional pici pasta and the chestnut dessert.

In these three days I feel I have travelled far, not only distance wise, but technically. I got a good grasp of the basic photography concepts and requirements and understood the importance of creating a relationship between the images and the writing. Setting the mood and the style for the particular magazine or blog you are writing for is also essential.

The Plate to Page workshop boosted my writing and photography skills, got in me the energies and enthusiasm needed to get creative and write. It identified my strengths and weaknesses and set me in the mood to work hard to improve. I met people from all over the world who share my same passion for food and who want to put this passion on paper and capture it in illustrative photos. I had the opportunity to enjoy the instructions of 4 dedicated and enthusiastic tutors which worked hard to make this workshop an experience to treasure.

Read more about the Plate to Page Workshop:

http://www.whatsforlunchhoney.net/2011/11/from-plate-to-page-under-tuscan-sun.html
http://lifesafeast.blogspot.com/2011/11/from-plate-to-page-tuscany.html?spref=fb
http://www.cooksister.com/2011/11/chicken-and-chorizo-potjiekos-.html
http://www.luculliandelights.com/2011/11/plate-to-page-tuscany-image-by-image.html

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When my sister-in-law started discussing her wedding plans with me I egoistically exclaimed – why don’t you get married in an Italian countryside venue? As the words marched out of my mouth I was already hallucinating about the scrumptious Italian-style food and the glorious wine.  Little did I know that she will take my word for it!

The drive up to the Castello di Meleto in the Chianti region of Tuscany is a snakes and ladders game.  The twirling roads with a perimeter of juniper and tall green cypress trees are not for the nauseous ones. Yet, the surrounding landscape of silver green olive trees and Chianti Classico grapevines compensate for the cumbersome drive.

When you reach the summit, a scrambled path takes you right to the entrance of the 13^th Century castle. The castle, with its cylindrical tower and surrounding gardens, magically transports you to a fairy-tale world. The property owned for a long time by the Ricasoli family, who might have historical roots in Malta, boasts of numerous suites, bedrooms and apartments which have retained the traditional wooden beams and the canopy beds. An 18^th century theatre, a secret passage and the wine cellars make Castello di Meleto a mystic and romantic venue.

We were welcomed at the castle with glasses of bubbly Prosecco, a number of mosquito bites and my sister-in-law with her future husband. Stephanie introduced us to the rest of the wedding fleet. There were quite a number of humble Japanese guests, two Scottish siblings, a gentleman from Spain and his wife from Kazakhstan, a couple from San Marino, the best man from Czech Republic with his wifre from Brazil, the Brazilian maid of honour and her Swedish boyfriend, two or three Italian citizens and also five Maltese couples. To put you into the picture I have to explain that Stephanie, a Maltese national, and Orlando, from Bolivia, met and lived for a long time in Japan, and then recently they moved to Sweden. Along the way they gathered various friends and so the wedding became a sort of mini-United Nations get together.

Our first group dinner in the castle helped us break the ice and after plentiful Chianti Classico wine it was like we have known each other for ages. Stephanie kept us entertained for the two days before the wedding with a number of organised events. In fact we indulged in a wine and chocolate tasting session at the castle, a Tuscan meat feast at Dario Cecchini, a reputable butcher in Panzano and some sightseeing in nearby cute medieval villages like Radda in Chianti.

The morning of the wedding was splendidly warm and guests spent the morning lazing around the castle area till it was time to celebrate. Later in the afternoon the bride and groom were ready to tie the knot. Orlando with tousled hair and an elegant 3-piece silvery suit took his place near the celebrant, excitedly waiting for his radiant wife-to-be. Stephanie had a long way to walk from the castle to the aisle yet this did not help her to unwind and she appeared overwhelmed with emotions as she took her seat near the tender Orlando.  As the ceremony proceeded in the garden overlooking the still grapevine valley, the sun kissed herbs emanated perfumed scents of sage, bay leaves and rosemary. The couple exchanged their vows visibly moved and the super romantic, fairy-tale atmosphere helped to bring tears to the eyes of many guests.

After the ceremony, we walked to the terraced garden which holds a formidable view of the Chianti hills.  From our position you could easily study the geometry of the vineyards and breathe the odour of the woods. The newly-weds kicked off the aperitif and a heavenly kingdom of food it was! First sparkling wines and fresh fruit juices were served to moisten our throats and then a selection of culinary Tuscan treasures was appetizingly plated on a colourful table. There were around eight types of pecorino cheese, fresh ricotta, mozzarella di bufala, jams, honey and chutneys accompanied by a variety of bread and a selection of cured meats. Differently dressed bruschettas were served and a particular stand was preparing the fritture of mozzarella balls, onion rings, sage leaves, zucchini flowers and aubergine fingers which were battered and fried at the moment and served in cones made of absorbent straw paper. All this finger-licking food made me euphoric!

Soon it was dinner time. The dining room was fascinating: chairs and tables were dressed in silky cream linen, silver cutlery was set and peach roses perfumed the air. Flowing wine accompanied our dinner: a soothing white Muller Thurgau and a well-bodied Chianti Classico produced at the Castello di Meleto. We started off with a creamy saffron risotto with courgette flowers, then fresh nettle ravioli with a porcini sauce. A liquid lemon sorbet was served to neutralise our taste buds. Then the main course followed: tender veal stuffed with artichoke hearts served with an elegant and mushy pommes duchesse and garnished with a tomato au gratin flavoured with wild fennel and herbs. The wedding cake deviated from the traditional almond cake – it was a crisp, creamy diplomatica suitably decorated for the occasion with fresh roses and blue ribbon. This was not the end of it all.

Some with slightly bulging, others with obviously protruding, bellies, we made our way to the dancing room only to find more food which was for the time being ignored. But after two hours of musical movements, a couple of mojitos and an extra dose of Amaro  Lucano then you definitely need to bite into a piece of cherry clafoutis or a white fig tart. And just before we went to bed a caffè to close a traditional Italian wedding in the right way!

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The buses from Foligno to Montefalco are sporadic. Buses run to and fro every two hours yet this inconvenience did not discourage us from visiting Montefalco.

Montefalco, was part of my father’s planned itinerary, whilst we were on a 3 day tour of the Italian festival I Primi d’Italia, in Foligno. The journey to the peak of the Umbrian hills is fascinating. You are surrounded by orderly fields of grape vines and olive trees, lined up like parading soldiers. Nature is at its best, creating a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere.

The bus stopped few metres away from the medieval doorway of the fortified town. Once you move beyond the high walls you can perceive a smell of the untouched, that natural odour of earth and woods. It’s as if the tannic scent of the Sagrantino grapes lingers over the entire town. Montefalco is synonymous for the Sagrantino grape variety which has been awarded the DOCG status.

The sacred atmosphere which reigns over Montefalco is reminiscent of the numerous medieval churches situated in the cobbled and narrow roads which spread through the town. We walked alertly around, attracted by the multiple shops of artisan textiles, biological extra virgin olive oil and Umbrian wine. There is nothing chaotic about the village of Montefalco. The atmosphere is serene, the pace is languid, and there is little business going on other than the shops, tourist attractions, restaurants and cafes.

A contemporary decorated shop, with a large display of olive oil and wine bottles labelled Romanelli caught our attention. An elegant, well-dressed gentleman approached us to introduce his products. In no time at all, we were engulfed in a deep conversation about our love for food and wine, our excitement about the Italian market and our passion for home made stuff. Mr. Costantino Romanelli, on seeing our growing enthusiasm, offered to guide us through his agricultural organisation. Definitely not an offer we could refuse, but first we had to lunch! We set appointment with Costantino for later that afternoon and meanwhile, we rummaged around the Umbrian town in search of a restaurant to tame our famished hearts.

Our family maxim, when on tour, is to eat the traditional specialities of the place. Thus, we were salivating to indulge in some typical Umbrian delicacies. At L’Alchimista the ambience is warm and glowing. Surrounded by hundreds of wine bottles, we proceeded to our table and chose a fragrant red Assisi wine. We nibbled on a selection of Umbrian cheeses and cold cuts and continued with a pork fillet cooked in Sagrantino wine. To conclude, the euphoric dessert – pears cooked in another dose of Sagrantino. L’Alchimista transported us to the Umbrian food paradise and we walked out satisfyingly full.

To loosen up, we sauntered down to the belvedere just outside the walls of Montefalco. I managed to nod off on a cold bench in front of the breath-taking 360° view of the Umbrian valleys. Parched with thirst, I woke up just in time to meet Costantino Romanelli and start our visit to his place. We met at the store in town, where Mrs. Romanelli was waiting for us with home-made grappa biscuits and a shot of the sweet, syrupy Passito di Sagrantino.  Not the ideal drink to quench my thirst after a full-bodied red at lunch time, but then could I miss tasting this gem of a liquorish wine?!

Costantino drove us to the farm. On the way he explained to us the work of three generations of his family, the natural processes they adopt and the care and attention with which they cultivate their produce. We stopped at the grape vines to observe the Sagrantino fruit – perfect bunches of grapes emanating from groomed vines, with no dry or rotten fruits in sight. It all looked like an artistic work of art. At the production area, Costantino’s sons informed us that they pick the Sagrantino grapes late, when the fruits are riper, thus producing softer tannins. There is always a professional secret behind a high quality product!

The Romanelli family insist to preserve the nature which surrounds them. They produce biological oils and wine, giving particular attention to the environment. The family also developed Romanelli Natura – a project designed to sustain the environment and promote ecotourism. Visitors can enjoy walks amidst olive trees and vineyards, explore the flora and fauna and observe the different bird species in their natural habitat.

The best part of this adventure was yet to come. Sitting on a bench, breathing in the air of the Umbrian hills, we were presented with a selection of extra virgin olive oil and crunchy croutons. With difficulty, after the large meal, but gladly, I tasted all the olive oil varieties and was impressed by their definite aroma. Eventually, we were joined by a German couple who visited Romanelli a couple of years back for the grape harvest. With some intermittent English we managed to share our views on the wines as we sipped on the whole selection of the Romanelli produce which includes a Grechetto white, 3 reds, and the passito and grappa made from Sagrantino grapes.

By the time we finished our tasting session the sky had exploded into a downpour of heavy rain. Light-headed with the wine, my father and I took no notice of the time. It was only then that we realised we were late for the bus to Foligno. Luckily, the German couple gently offered us a lift to the Umbrian capital.

The Montefalco and Romanelli proved to be an enriching experience to our gusto sensibility. After all, I guess, heaven is also a place on earth!

Eatmania exclusively imports Romanelli products. For more information visit www.eatmania.com/products or call us on +356 9944 6469.

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I could not believe my ears! For the second time, my return from Germany to Malta, following my attendance at an insurance related conference, was inconveniently disrupted. Last year, the volcanic ash cloud left me stranded for nearly a week; this time I was stuck at Dresden airport risking to lose my connecting flight to Malta.

As the announcement was repeated, I scrambled out of the departure gates area and reached the airline desk only to find a long queue of frustrated passengers waiting for feedback from the Lufthansa staff.  When my turn arrived I was informed that the only option was flying from Dresden to Dusseldorf, Dusseldorf to Munich and Munich to Malta. And the best was yet to come: the flight for Dusseldorf was leaving in 5 minutes, and I would arrive in Munich at 1330 hours. Please note that my return flight to Malta from Munich was leaving at 1400 hours so that was practically mission impossible!

I would prefer skipping the part where my vocabulary of foul language predominated my me-to-me talk and the time I spent swearing to myself that I will never attend this conference again. So the conclusion was that after speeding through 3 different German airports, I managed to board the aircraft to Malta just a minute before they closed the door. Breathless and wheezing like a tired donkey I took my seat, wiped my forehead and inhaled my asthma preventer.

My adventure to Dresden, despite being marred by this aggravation, was gratifying in terms of relaxation, shopping and food. Notwithstanding the fact that Dresden lost its world heritage status in June 2009, it is still a city of art and culture. With its numerous museums, galleries and theatres it can be an exciting getaway for all art lovers. Moreover, since it is situated in the valley of the river Elbe visitors can enjoy nature whilst walking, cycling or picnicking on the river’s banks. Beer gardens are a must visit, especially in late Spring and Summer when the days are sunnier.

Dresden view

I was staying at the Westin Bellevue right at the centre of Dresden. The hotel is surrounded by gardens on the banks of the river Elbe. Being an early riser I managed to enjoy a couple of short walks at the park. During my short visit I roamed around the city, did some shopping and took some photos of the magnificent views and historical monuments. I made it a point to taste some typical Saxon cuisine so I enjoyed an early dinner at the Coselpalais, which is situated in one of the most popular roads in Dresden – An der Frauenkirche (close to the Church of our Lady).

Westin Bellevue gardens

Coselpalais Grand Cafe & Restaurant

At the Coselpalais the baroque atmosphere gives a sense of grandeur. The porcelain figures, ceiling frescoes and mirrors make this palace a true historical gem. The vast menu combines regional specialities with Mediterranean and international cuisine. A shorter menu of daily specials is also available. This large selection of food makes deciding what to eat quite a confusing task.

One of the dining halls at Coselpalais

I started off with a fine game meat salad with dried apricots and sun-dried tomatoes. It was accompanied by cherry tomatoes, mandarin slices, and green leaves dressed with a leek and cranberry dressing. The meat was tender and juicy, the sweetness of the apricots together with the bitterness of the mandarin was soothing to the palate.

Fine game meat salad

As I waited for my main course, in this remarkable 18th Century building, I had a look at the dessert menu and at the sweets counter. The display was gorgeously appetising – chocolate mousse tart, apple strudel, apricot pie, sour cream cake, petit fours – the long list makes you feverish for dessert.  Yet, I had to concentrate on my venison goulash first which was served with almond potato balls and crunchy Brussels sprouts with chopped ham. I was dying to ask for some crusty bread to scrape off the sauce but I stayed away from the temptation.

Unfortunately, after such a delicious, but voluminous meal I had no more space for dessert and had to control my fervid appetite for sweets. Alas, as I stood waiting at the airport, the next day, for my eventually cancelled flight I was drooling for a slice of apple strudel! On my return day, I did not even manage to have a decent cup of coffee,  let alone, an apple strudel like the one of Coselpalais. I only ate a packet of chili crisps on one plane, a Milka on the other and a dull and unseasoned chicken ‘salad’ on the last one.

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By Karl Vassallo as told to Adam Warner

It wasn’t the scale of the place that impressed me at first, but rather the size of an event that was dedicated solely to rice, specifically risotto rice. I was at the Fiera del Riso in the village of Isola della Scala just outside Verona. A village I had the pleasure of visiting on my previous trip, where, for an entire month, suppliers of risotto rice come together and celebrate the grain.

There were participants from across the region, with each supplier competing to produce the best Risotto all’Isolana, while also treating the 500,000 visitors to many other risottos and rice based dishes over the course of the month.

I had been well and truly bitten by the risotto bug. In the months prior to the fair I had kept in regular correspondence with a number of suppliers to such an extent that I was personally invited to attend the fair, and learn about the inner workings of risotto cooking on a much larger scale than I had seen on my previous trips.

Of many risottos tasted over the 3 days, one in particular stood out. The Risotto all’Isolana; it is made with pork and veal, and spiced with rosemary and cinnamon. All the flavours carefully balanced for a real depth of flavour. I was lucky enough to be taught the recipe by Gabriele Ferron, and it gives me great pleasure to, in turn, share it with you.

Recipe: Risotto all’Isolana

Ingredients for 4 people

320 g Vialone Nano rice
750 ml beef stock
150 g pork loin, chopped
150 g lean veal, chopped
60 g butter
60 g parmesan, grated
cinnamon powder
rosemary sprig
white wine
salt & pepper

Method

Over a low heat, melt 40 g of butter with a small sprig of rosemary. When the butter turns gold, remove the rosemary. Add the meat and increase the heat. Brown the meat and season with salt, pepper and a dash of white wine. Lower the heat and cook through.

Pour the beef stock into pan, place on the stove and bring to boil, add the rice in a cone shape. Cover and let it start boiling again.

Once the stock is boiling, with a wooden spoon gently stir the rice in a figure of 8. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and cook for 10 minutes. Check the rice and once the rice is well visible under the layer of stock, add the meat sauce and cover again until the stock has been absorbed (1-2 minutes). Remove from heat and mix gently. Add the Parmesan cheese (previously sprinkled with cinnamon), the remaining butter and delicately mix.

Let the risotto rest in the pan for 2 minutes, covered with a damp cloth. Serve with a sprig of rosemary accompanied by an Amarone di Valpolicella for a complete traditonal taste of Isola della Scala.

The Ferron company is very much a family affair and in the evenings I would spend my time at “Risolandia”, an enormous hall housing a 300 seat Risotteria headed by Gabriel Ferron’s son Diego. The team also included his brothers Maurizio and Denis and 8 other young chefs serving almost 700 risotto’s over the course of the night, with around 400 of the local speciality, Risotto all’Isolana being served.

The kitchen worked like a military operation, everyone knew their job and carried it out with such efficiency that no errors were made all night. There were a number of techniques being used to cook the risotto. The Risotto all’Isolana, using the technique in the recipe above; the risotto with Radicchio di Verona IGP and monte veronese cheese, was made with the more commonly known stirring method, where the stock is added gradually. While another delicious dish named, Riso con straccetti di manzo con funghi, formaggio e rosmarino, uses a pilaf method and Carnaroli rice, where the rice is cooked in the oven instead of on the hob.

Diego Ferron was the generalissimo of the kitchen, taking orders and passing on instructions, followed to the letter by his team, each dish cooked to perfection.

It wasn’t only risotto being served that night. There was tiramisu for desert, with a sponge made of rice flour. The rice flour gave the sponge an unusual, though not unpleasant texture and although I would be hard pressed to pick a rice flour tiramisu over the usual tiramisu it was still a well balanced desert.

However, the dish that struck me as an example of the diversity of rice was the Pasticcio di riso, a dish similar to lasagne but using pancakes made from rice flour rather than pasta sheets. A much lighter and, in my opinion, a far more satisfying version of the classic Italian dish. I have reproduced the recipe by Gabriel Ferron below, and I urge you to try it, it really is a wonderful dish.

Recipe: Pasticcio di riso

Adapted from ‘Dall’antipasto al dolce – il Riso in cucina’ by Gabriele Ferron

Ingredients for 8 people

Rice pancakes
400 ml milk, at room temperature
150 g ‘La Pila Vecia’ rice flour
2 eggs, whole
20 g vegetable oil

Ragu
2 bay leaves
40 g onion, finely chopped
40 g carrot, finely chopped
40 g celery, finely chopped
40 g bacon, finely chopped
200 g minced beef
200 g minced pork
50 g tomato paste
240 g peeled tomatoes
150 g parmesan, grated
50 g butter
red wine
flour
nutmeg, grated
salt and pepper

Béchamel sauce
500 ml milk
50 g rice flour
40 g butter
nutmeg, grated

Method

Start by preparing the rice crepes. In a bowl, beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Pour the milk, at room temperature, and stir in the vegetable oil and the rice flour. Continue to stir firmly until the mixture turns into a soft creamy batter. Let it stand for 30 minutes.

When it’s done heat a non-stick frying pan add some butter and when the pan becomes hot add a ladle of the batter and cook the crepes on both sides. Repeat process until the mixture finishes. Makes around four big pancakes.

For the ragu melt some butter, add extra virgin olive oil and the bay leaves. When hot add the finely chopped onion, carrot, and celery and fry in the pan for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a separate pan, cook the meat (minced beef, minced pork and pancetta) slowly until brown. Add some salt and a glass of red wine. Allow the wine to evaporate and then transfer the meat to the pan with the vegetables. Stir, cooking over high flame.

Add the tomato paste and tomatoes, stirring constantly. At this point add 1 litre of vegetable broth or water, stir again and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and grated nutmeg.

Whilst the ragu is cooking, make the béchamel sauce. In a saucepan melt the butter over medium heat, add the flour and whisk until the mixture is homogeneous. Remove from heat. Slowly pour the hot milk in the pan and mix well with the butter to stop it from forming lumps. Put the pan on the flame again and continue stirring with a whisk until it reaches boiling point.

Simmer for 20 minutes, adding salt and pepper and grated nutmeg to taste.

Assembly

Grease a baking tray and layer over the crepes of rice covering the bottom of the tray. Pour over some béchamel sauce to cover the crepes and then add a layer of ragu. Sprinkle with grated parmesan and scatter small pieces of butter.

Repeat the above steps to create at least 3 layers.

Finish off the surface with the béchamel, and ragu – no more crepes. Sprinkle the dish with plenty of grated parmesan and some butter. Place the dish in an oven preheated to 200 degrees and cook for 40 minutes.

When cooked, leave to rest before serving, then cut into portions and serve.

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This is the first of a series of articles about my experiences whilst travelling around the risotto rice belt. My first stop was Isola della Scala, home of the Vialone nano rice, in the Veneto region – Italy.

When it comes to risotto I’m a bit of a late starter. Since I grew up in Malta I had a broad Mediterranean diet and had experienced this classic Italian dish on occasions. My flatmate in Amsterdam, who is a big fan of this dish, cooked risottos fairly often yet its appeal never really stuck. I always thought it was a labour intensive dish, rather unappealing after a hard day at work. The need for precision and attention always meant that, given the choice, I’d take pasta over risotto any day.

Last year on a trip to New York I visited Risotteria, a restaurant with a focus on risotto. Normally it would not have been my first choice, but I love the novelty of these single-item restaurants. The risotto in question, with calamari and lemon, was very good, but I acquired more than just the taste of the dish from my visit. I was impressed by the versatility and creativity of a dish with endless possibilities.

Back in Amsterdam I started cooking risotto more often. I used Arborio rice, the most common type of risotto rice found in the supermarkets over here. But I could never get it quite right. I did my research and discovered that there was more to rice than just Arborio. I became acquainted with the Vialone Nano and Carnaroli rice, both of which were rice varieties unheard of to me. From what I read they seemed to be of far superior quality than Arborio.

Due to my growing interest in rice I decided to spend some time in the Po Valley, Italy, the birthplace of risotto. I stayed in Verona for much of the time. Situated in northern Italy, it lies at the easterly point of the risotto rice belt that stretches from Torino in the west, past Milan and ends a little east of Verona. Two suppliers growing rice near the city invited me over to spend some time with them. Here I began to appreciate the Vialone Nano and Carnaroli rice varieties above all others.

View The Risotto Rice Belt in a larger map

I first met with a comparably new supplier in the scene, the owner of Riso Melotti, in Isola della Scala just south of Verona. Over a morning coffee we chatted idly, and after we took the short journey with the car to his farm. It was a magnificent area, flat and expansive. Here I learnt about the process of growing rice and also it’s processing. I think my eagerness to learn more was evident. I was offered further visits and also an open invitation to his rice paddies. For lunch we ate at the Risotteria Melotti, a restaurant owned by the Melotti family. We ate and drank at a leisurely pace all through the afternoon. The young chef kept coming with a never-ending supply of rice and risotto dishes.  So to tantalise your taste buds the menu for that afternoon was:

An antipasto of ‘Melottino’, a salami with toasted rice, some cacciotina cheese known as ‘Melottina’, accompanied by some grissini. The primi consisted of: Grilled rice polenta with rabbit stew, a rice piadina with salami ‘Melottino’ and cacciottina ‘Mellottina’, and a rice strudel with vegetables and cream of Topinambur. The main dishes were three risottos: Risotto with broccoli and peperoncino, the famous Risotto all’Isolana and a risotto with scallops and sun dried tomatoes. For dessert I had a tiramisu made with plum cake prepared with flour of Vialone nano rice by Melotti. We finished the meal with the ubiquitous espresso before I left for Vinitaly, and spent there a lazy evening of wine tasting.

The second of the suppliers I visited was Riseria Ferron, headed by Gabriele Ferron, an internationally renowned chef, nicknamed the ‘King of Rice’. His empire extends to a restaurant located in the building of a 17th century flourmill, the Pila Vecia.

The risotto I tasted there was without doubt the best I have ever eaten. His degustation menu was a showcase of both Ferron’s skills as a cook, the versatility of the ingredient and an example of how the habitat of the rice paddies can be used to supply the kitchen with more than just the rice. One risotto in particular was made with the carp and other fish that live in the rice paddies.

Perhaps the most amazing thing about the whole experience was that Gabriele Ferron and his son, Diego, prepared 8 separate dishes for around 80 people, having each plate cooked to perfection.

The menu for the degustation event at Pila Vecia, held during the Vinitaly wine fair was the following:

It was in Ferron’s kitchen that I learnt new techniques on how to cook risotto. From that moment risotto was no longer identified as a dish that required constant stirring and attention. One of Ferron’s techniques in particular, the one I’m sharing with you below, is a method that doesn’t require stirring or adding of stock slowly. It does not even take 30 minutes plus to cook! However it’s a technique that requires exact measurements.

Risotto is a dish that is often underrated and misunderstood. It is rich and creamy yet delicate and often lighter than pasta. With the addition of few ingredients you can create a diffusion of flavours with real depth. Its versatility makes it ideal as a gluten free, classic, store, cupboard, comfort food but it is also a dish that can thrill and impress. A risotto can be anything you want, convenient or complicated, quick or slow; but always one of the most satisfying dishes to cook and eat.

Here is the recipe that I now use on a weekly basis. It seems fairly simple but the measurements and timing are critical for the success of the dish.

Recipe: Risotto Parmigiano Reggiano

This is a basic risotto recipe that can be used as a base for most of your risotto dishes.

Ingredients for 4 people:

• 320g Carnaroli rice
• 700ml vegetable stock
• 60g parmiggiano reggiano, grated
• ½ onion, finely chopped
• knob of butter
• extra stock

Making the vegetable stock

Roughly chop 3 celery sticks, 2 medium-sized carrots and 1 large onion. Throw all ingredients in a large pan, add 2 litres of water, a bay leaf and bring to boil. Simmer for 40 minutes, uncovered. Using a spoon/sieve, remove the foam that rises to the top. When it’s done, add salt to taste and then remove from heat and pass through a sieve.

Preparing the risotto

Pour the stock in a pan and bring to boil. In the meantime heat some olive oil in another large pan and add the onion. Cook until transparent; do not let the onion turn brown. Add the rice and toast until rice is very hot. Test with your fingers (careful though!). When hot enough, add the boiling stock at one go. Mix gently, cover and cook on very low flame for 13 minutes.

It is important that the stock is boiling hot. Let the rice cook until the stock is absorbed. Taste the rice. If it is not ready and all the water has dried out, add some more boiling stock and let it absorb it again. Taste the rice again.

Remove from heat and add the butter and the cheese. Mix gently until the cheese and butter have melted. If it is too sticky you can add some extra broth for a creamier texture. Put the lid on and cover with damp cloth for 2 minutes. The flavours will mix and create a simple wonderful dish.

It can also be experimented with by adding an older type of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, extra stock for more creaminess and maybe some grated cinnamon mixed in with the cheese. This simple dish then becomes quite sophisticated.

In the next article I will recount my visit to The Rice Fair in Isola Della Scala – a celebration of rice from Veneto region, together with the recipe of the famous risotto all’Isolana.

I also would like to hear from you. So please do let me know what type of rice you use for risotto and what technique you use to cook the dish.

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As soon as we took off from gusty Malta and roller coasted towards the leaden sky, we were rummaging through the endless restaurant recommendations we collated. Chris, my Eatmania supporter and husband-to-be, put the hammer down on All’Osteria Bottega – venue for our first dinner. Alas, after a lengthy walk amidst the red medieval arch-ways of Bologna we discovered that the Osteria was fully booked throughout the whole weekend. Booking ahead is a must.

In Bologna you are swallowed up with food, thus, finding a restaurant is not an issue. Our next in line was Da Gianni A La Vècia Bulàgna. Tucked away in a tiny alley in Via Clavature this spouses-run restaurant is a cosy, antiquely decorated den where you can savour traditional Bolognese dishes. We started off with a mixed platter consisting of: crostini with lard slices, fried polenta slices with squacquerone cheese, mortadella mousse, chicken and mortadella galantine. To help our digestion we ordered a bottle of persistent and robust San Giovese.

For the primo Chris opted for the potato gnocchi with ragù Bolognese and for me, gramigna with ragù di salsiccia. The gnocchi were soft and delicate accompanied by a meaty tomato sauce. The bi-coloured gramigna, which are short curved home-made pasta curls, were served with a rich red sauce with sausage meat.

By now our stomachs were crowded, yet as the mains got to our front we forked gracefully through the smooth potato puree and fresh cotechino until the plates remained with only a few green droplets of the accompanying salsa verde. Finally the desserts! I chose the pinkish zuppa inglese: a sponge cake layered with zabaione cream and fondant chocolate. Chris picked the orgasmic tortino al cioccolato which was decorated with a dense forest fruit sauce. To digest we had a long shot of their typical digestive liqueur – Amaro Montenegro.

Our awakening on Saturday morning was hindered by our tyre-like stomachs still jam packed by Gianni’s providence. Thankfully it was cold and we could easily hide our stomachs underneath our thick jackets. After a tiny breakfast we headed to the capital of engines – Modena. This ancient town, famous for its production of balsamic vinegar, is home to a Unesco World Heritage marked cathedral. As we walked through the shady streets we were mesmerized by the numerous enotecas and cafés around. No matter where you look your eyes will rest on some appended cured whole leg of ham or some round chunky wheel of parmesan cheese. Showcases displayed an array of balsamic vinegar bottles worth hundreds of Euros – the more mature the vinegar the highest the price and the sweetest the taste.

As we approached via Albanella we made it through the open Sesame door to discover a heavenly food market selling every artichoke species, any type of radicchio, a wide variety of fruit and vegetables, meats, fish, cheeses, plants, bread, legumes… anything you might require to prepare a hearty Italian meal!

We heard that close to the Albanella market there is this homely trattoria which is the place to savour traditional Emilia Romagna dishes. At Trattoria Aldina there are no frills, no décor, and no particular style. It is just like being invited over to your mum’s aunt house situated in the centre of the village. You go through a normal house door, up the stairs to this medium-sized poorly lit hall and pray that you find a free table.

Luckily we were the first on the waiting list. After us 30 more covers asked for a table. Once we were seated this sweet motherly lady read the menu to us and we chose from a selection of primi and secondi. Chris had tortellini in broth – plain, warm and succulent. I chose the cappellaci di zucca with butter and sage – sweet pumpkin-filled pasta. We kept with the traditional dishes and continued our meal with a bollito misto with green salsa and the juiciest, most tender pork shank I ever dipped my fork into. To conclude we had home-made desserts: Chris had a crunchy ciambella with jam and for me a moist chocolate cake. All this together with a bottle of Lambrusco and a large bottle of water for an easy €40!

The purpose of our trip to Bologna was a culinary dive into the Emilia Romagna traditions. If you intend to plan a similar trip include a visit to Ferrara which is also a culinary stop. Eat at the historical osteria which goes back to the Renaissance – Al Brindisi. You will be enchanted by the walls of wine bottles which encircle you. As you decide for your wine crunch on some typical Ferrarese bread, and if you want to keep to tradition indulge in the pasticcio di maccheroni alla ferrarese, salama da sugo and a pampapato for dessert.

You might also want to try:

La Baita Formaggi, Via Pescherie Vecchie 3/a – Bologna – for salumi, cheeses and pasta ripiena. During lunch time they also prepare platters.

Tamburini Antica Salsamenteria Bolognese & VeloCibo (Bistrot), via Caprarie,1 - Bologna – the VeloCibo for the evening aperitivo or the quick lunch and the salumeria for a selection of cheeses, cured meats and pasta.

La Sorbetteria Castiglione, via Castiglione 44 – Bologna – original ice-cream recipes using typical Italian ingredients like Sicilian pistachios, hazelnuts from Piemonte.

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Located to the south of the Guadarrams mountains, at 2.100 metres above sea-level and along the sides of the Manzanares river is Madrid – the capital of Spain. With a population in the region of five million, Madrid enjoys a cool climate thanks to the mountains which surround it. Its many palaces, museums and art galleries are a feast for lovers of modern culture. The city also prides itself of its vibrant nightlife. But what struck us most in this lively city is the people’s love for food, and amazingly good food that is!

What at first was an unexpected trip to Spain, turned out to be one of our best experiences in this country and as stated food played an important role in this exciting journey. It was a culinary experience which will linger on my taste buds for many years to come.

Our food adventure begun as soon as we arrived! As we strolled down through narrow streets we noticed these plain bars, similar to what in Malta we call, kazini. These were full of locals talking loudly, puffing the nasty smell of tobacco and indulging themselves in food of every kind, various colours and strange looking dishes.  Ordering food in a Madrid restaurant is more easily said than done…..that is because it is very hard to find an English menu.  After walking nearly for half an hour through these bars we finally decided to eat at Meson Gallego Casa Valino just because the waitress appeared to be familiar with the English language.  As we sat down, we asked for the ‘Menu De La Dia’, that is the menu of the day, and settled down with a fresh and light bottle of wine which was part of the menu.  As we noted the time on our watches it seemed that the standard lunch time for the locals was around 3pm.  Unfortunately, our assumption that the waitress knew how to speak English was not  so right but finally we managed to order some food.  The first dish was Paella Mixta for both of us.  This consisted of a very colourful rice mixture, which contained anything from meat, beef and pork to fish i.e. whole crabs and some other 4 different types of shellfish.  The taste was unbelievable, nothing like other Paellas we have tasted in Barcelona.

By the time we finished the first dish we both felt full but our thought was short lived as soon as the second plate was presented to us.  I had the Conejo Asado (Roast Rabbit), which was plainly cooked but the tenderness and the taste of the meat was a mouth watering treat…  I wonder what the Spanish feed their rabbits – a dish of Paella Mixta was my first guess!  Mari played it safe and had a Filete De Tenera (Veal Steak) which turned out to be extremely tasty and smoky.  Both dishes were accompanied by home made fries and fresh bread.  Simply mouth watering food! What shocked us both was that the meal (including wine) came to only ?11 per person!  We did not eat anything else for the whole day!

The next day, after touring the city and walking for long distances it was time for our second culinary adventure.  The next spot we chose was in the famous Calle De Le Cava Baja a street just off Plaza Mayor.  After getting ourselves confused again in which spot to enter we chose a taberna called Toma Jamon, a small bar with a small eating hall at the back and with only 5 tables.  We decided to go for the degustation tapas thus we were served with a small platter of olives, some kind of tasty local cheese, pieces of cured ham and chunks of bread with a tomato like paste.  After that we had a serving of grilled asparagus together with a bowl of Gazpacho.  Luckily, what followed next tasted so wonderful that it made me forget the taste of the cold and tangy Gazpacho….and that was a fried shrimp omelette and homemade potato and cheese croquettes Afterwards we were presented with two lovely tower omelettes, one of mushrooms and the other made with potatoes and speck.  Simply a taste from heaven!

We could not end our lunch without something sweet.  Our wish was granted as soon as we passed a shop called ‘Happy Days’.  It sure made our day a happy one with plenty of cup cakes of various colours and flavours to choose from.

Another thing we read about in the guide, just before visiting Madrid was this old café. The Chocolatería San Ginés which has been operating since 1894, and it is famous for its chocolate con churros.  This was a serving of freshly prepared deep fried battered strips, to be dipped in a strong and thick hot chocolate served on the side.  It was an exciting experience being in such an old place and enjoying a delicacy which has been served for so many years!

Our next eating experience was at  ‘La Camarilla’, once again in what became our favourite street, Cava Baja.  Again, we opted for the Menu De La Dia, which came with a good cold beer and some very tasty firsts, made up of toasted bread with salmon and avocado and the other with cured ham and melted brie.  Following were some type of pastry  filled with a paste which we did not manage to identify what this was made of.  I must admit this was turning out to be a bit frustrating not being able to understand the menus and the waiters seemed to be too busy running around the place rather than making their utmost to speak to us in English.  This issue kept haunting me… especially in the next serving.  I ordered a dish described with the word ‘madrileño’ therefore I thought that it must be some local speciality.  Indeed it was a local favourite which turned out to be the Cocido Madrileno – a soup like dish which although was very tasty it contained large pieces of pork belly and black pudding.  I had no option but to eat this the Maltese way… so I dipped chunks of bread in the sauce instead of eating the meat!  The other dish was another omelette tower, similar to what we ate the day before, but this time it was made with abundant chunks of white fish.

Our lesson from this experience is….Always Carry A Dictionary!

After that experience we decided to opt for a more classic meal. A Brasero Colonial per dos at ‘Colonia Del Sacramento’.  Now this was not our first time eating a mixed grill in Spain but yet again we were surprised by the amount of food we  were presented with. The only difference this time was the way it was presented on our table as can be seen on the picture below.  And for a good red wine take note of the name:  Protos – Ribera Duerro 2008. Excellent!

Other places worth mentioning are the various places called Museo Del Jamón which means a Ham museum where you can get a simple yet delicious baguette with Jamón ibérico, and a typical iberico cheese for just €1.  One can also buy different types of hams and cheeses over the counter.  Just be careful, these places are absolutely packed especially the one we went to which was just off Puerta del Sol.

Next up on our mind was a cold beer so we popped in at the Cerveceria 100 Montaditos.  This terrific chain of bars serves up no fewer than 100 different varieties of mini bocadillos (filled rolls) that span the full range of Spanish staples in more combinations than you could imagine.

You fill out your order and take it up to the counter, and your name is called in no time.  Prices for these mini rolls vary from €1 to €2.50 each, but they’re filled up with really genuine products and with that you get a pint of Mahou (a local beer) for just €1.

Our holiday was nearing its end and after visiting other different tapas bars and sidrerias, that are places serving different types of ciders and obviously good food we decided to end our journey at a place we have visited four times during our stay, but to our disappointment it was always full.  So on the last day we went there by 8.30pm which is ridiculously early to eat for the locals.  This time the place was nearly empty with the exception of a couple of tourists which had other eating schedules than the locals.  The place was called Taberna El Tempranillo, and what came next blew us away!  This time we opted for a normal meal rather then tapas.  Starters consisted of toasted bread with quail breast and duck cured ham.  Absolutely wonderful, but we had seen nothing yet.

We chose the specialties of the day as main courses and with a little help from the waiter who took the time to explain to us what was on the menu, we ordered  a very delicious squid and chickpeas soup and some good meat cuts.  The main courses were presented separately and so first we dived in the squid and chickpeas soup which although it was a bit strange it was very good especially the tenderness and taste of the squid cooked in white wine.  Next up was the meat!  A plate of raw strips of meat seasoned with salt and only salt.  At this time the waiter tried to explain that this was a very fresh cut of meat and we had no doubt in what we saw.  What followed was a hot dish on which we were meant to cook the meat ourselves and so we did.  Few seconds on each side and there it was, the most delicious piece of meat we have ever tasted, something out of this world!  Dessert came next and although it was again very hard to understand the ingredients we were blown away by the taste of this platter.  Next came some good Spanish vermouth and sweet carob wine to end up a memorable holiday in this beautiful city which I would not dare to think twice to visit again in the future. Buen apetito!

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My last entry of the primi festival in Foligno is all about rice! One of the degustation menu tavernas was catered by chef Gabriele Ferron, the king of risotto! The menus varied depending on the day and seatings required booking and attendance by a fixed time. This was required, as we later discovered, because the rice is cooked there instantly and only preparation is done ahead.

Degustation menu at Ferron's taverna

As we entered the taverna we realised that it was full to its brim! As we hungrily waited for the food to start being served we heard people whispering to each other positive comments about Ferron and his products. Many said they come to the festival annually but eat only at Ferron, others insisted that the food was amazingly prepared at the moment and everything was so fresh and tasty! Till then our expectations rose sky high so we were anxious to taste the food… menu 1 was being served at our evening and thus we enjoyed the following exquisite dishes. Must also add that this particular taverna served the food in terracotta plates and bowls and used proper cutlery whereas other tavernas had everything disposable. This added a further real touch of mediavality  to the degustation event.

So, here’s the food in pictures!

The polenta, although not Dad’s favourite, turned out to be a rich juicy mash topped with creamy salted cod… too tasty to refuse!

Polenta with cod alla vicentina

Risotto with Montello herbs and Casatella Trevigiana

This risotto was very delicate; the casatella trevigiana is a sweet milky cheese which produced an excellently creamy risotto. The herbs from Montello, a region of Verona, added a wild flavour to the dish.

Pilaf rice with chicken and wild mushrooms

The wild mushrooms created a simple yet tangy dish which flavoured the perfectly cooked rice.

This high quality menu was washed down with a sparkling wine from Veneto and concluded with a small square of rice nougat which was just right after this enriching experience!

We wrapped up the Foligno festival very positively and returned home with a delicate aroma, and a couple of products from Ferron which we are trying out in our culinary adventures! Must describe this festival as a cultivating journey through the products and dishes of the various Italian regions and must say Thanks Dad for providing me with such opportunity – it surely spiced up my culinary knowledge in primi piatti!

Just a small note: don’t dare think that we bought only products from Ferron since we checked in a luggage of 5 kilos and boarded our return flight with 30 kilos of food

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