Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 400g Vialone Nano (Riseria Ferron) rice*
• 800ml vegetable stock (I make my own with 2 carrots, 1 celery, 1 onion and 2 litres of water – simmer for 30 minutes)
• 2 small onions, finely chopped
• 1 celery stick
• 1 bay leaf
• 150g Maltese sausage
• 150g pumpkin, cut into small cubes
• 100g chestnuts, roasted and peeled
• 30g grated parmesan cheese
• 30g butter
• Extra virgin olive oil

*Ferron rice is a product imported from Verona exclusively by Eatmania

1. Finely chop one onion and celery stick. Pour some extra virgin olive oil into a casserole and cook the onion and celery for 5 minutes together with the bay leaf. Add the pumpkin cubes, crumbled sausage meat and the chestnuts and cook for a further 10 minutes.
2. In a large deep pan, pour 2 tablespoons olive oil and cook the other finely chopped onion until soft. Add the rice until heated through and pour all the boiling stock at one go. Lower heat and simmer rice for 10 minutes or as indicated on the packet instructions. Add the chestnut and sausage mixture to the risotto. Mix well.
3. Remove from heat, add butter and parmesan and stir. Cover pan with lid and leave to rest for 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

So, for lunch on Saturday I prepared the following recipe:

Risotto with yellow peppers

Risotto with yellow peppers

Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 320g carnaroli rice
• 700ml vegetable stock
• 2 yellow peppers
• 4 tomatoes
• 1 garlic clove
• 2 onions
• 60g chopped emmenthal cheese
• extra virgin olive oil
• salt & pepper

Wash the peppers, remove the seeds and cut into thin strips. Finely chop the onion and garlic clove. Remove the seeds from the tomatoes and cut into small chunks.

In a saucepan, pour some olive oil add the onion, garlic, peppers and tomatoes. Season with salt and leave to cook for about 30 minutes.

In a large casserole pour some olive oil, add the other finely chopped onion and when transparent add the rice. Toast the rice until heated through.

Add the boiling vegetable stock at one go, mix delicately and cover the casserole. Cook on a very low flame for around 12 minutes. Just before serving add the pepper mixture, a knob of butter and the cheese.

Green asparagus

Ingredients for 4 persons:

For the stock:

• 2 litres cold water
• 1 onion
• celery
• 2 carrots
• salt

Asparagus risotto

Gabriele, with his Italian charm, makes you feel immediately at ease. As we drove to Marsaxlokk, to our first location of the degustation, Gabriele explained the plan for the day, making sure that everything will be ready by the time the customers arrive. As he took control of the impeccably clean kitchen of Tartarun restaurant, the rice master, now in his full chef uniform, picked up the knives, pots and pans and started to work.

We went through the degustation menu together with chef of Tartarun, James Schiavone. James proudly exhibited the selection of freshly bought fish as required for the occasion and made sure Gabriele was provided with necessary tools and ingredients.  For the rest of the day, Gabriele and James worked head to head to prepare the three different stocks, the dessert and all that was needed to assemble the dishes on the menu.

As seating time approached, customers started to gather at the bar. Whilst incomers were enjoying an aperitif, the atmosphere in the kitchen was orderly and calm. Gabriele was sipping on a glass of prosecco whilst the waiting staff strolled out with the amouse bouche. This consisted of crackers made from rice flour and topped with three different spreads: cream of green tomatoes; chickpea & olive oil puree and a pate of almond & sweet peppers. 

Soon after, when the crowd got larger, Chef Gabriele Ferron appeared to make his introduction. He explained how from all over the world, people ask him to visit their country to share with them the culture of rice. Rice, he said, should be appreciated worldwide for its nutritional value and significance.  Gabriele amusingly explained why rice is thrown at two people who have just got married. He describes rice as a symbol of love, fertility, prosperity, well-being and happiness.

His speech was closed with a deafening applause. Then, smiling customers were accompanied to their seats and introduced to the wine pairing selection provided by M. Demajo Wines & Spirits.

The degustation menu kicked off with the Pesce fritto: prawns, calamari, squid, and a red mullet fillet were coated in a batter made from rice flour and deep-fried. Meanwhile, I was hovering gently around the serving hall to collect feedback and also scrambling in and out of the kitchen to peck at the fritto extras. The amazing characteristic of rice flour is that it does not absorb the oil. The fried fish leaves no trace of oil on your fingertips and there is no greasy trail as you munch it down your throat. So, thumbs up for the antipasto!

As I peeped into the now bustling kitchen, Gabriele and his team were preparing the primo. With an enormous pan resting between his arms, Gabriele was delicately whisking the polenta. The white polenta, made from rice flour, was served with fresh pan-fried barracuda and a tomato concasse.

Rice-based polenta with fresh fish sauce

Circling around the seating area, after the polenta was served, I could not figure out the perplexed expression on the face of the public. As I discreetly fished for compliments, (sorry for being humble but truthful) I reckoned that many were not familiar with the word polenta. Others knew that it was that yellow sticky mass they usually see on Italian TV programmes, which appears unappetising for many.  Despite of the fear of the unknown, it was evident, that after the first spoonful everyone scraped this soft and digestible cream off their bowls. The polenta turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Preparing 4 different risottos for around 60 people is no piece of cake. Yet, Gabriele and co. managed this task perfectly well. After the light polenta, 4 portions of risotto were served at approximately 15 minute intervals. Out with the risotto artichokes and Mediterranean prawns first! A succulent prawn topped up the carnaroli rice, which had absorbed all the flavours of the pink prawn stock prepared that morning. The fleshy artichoke hearts complimented the dish.

Risotto with Mediterranean king prawns and artichoke hearts

Next in line was the delicate scallop and sparkling wine risotto. Toasted with a prosecco from Veneto and cooked in boiling fish stock this risotto was seductively served with a shallow-fried scallop nested in its shell.

Risotto with sparkling wine and scallops

In the waiting intervals of the train of risottos, I was moving around the restaurant chatting with people I knew and also introducing myself to new faces. With fingers crossed, I was curious to know whether everything was to their liking. Luckily, I collected only positive comments. Eaters were mystified by the consistency of the rice. In Malta, risotto meant that heavy gluey mixture made from Arborio rice. The rice used by Gabriele Ferron in the served dishes was unfamiliar to most of the attendees. Two of the finest rice varieties were cooked at this degustation event: the superfine Carnaroli and the Vialone Nano. I suggest you read this article for more information on these varieties.

So, another 2 risottos were still to be served. Although people were starting to feel full, no one resisted the black risotto. Blended with fresh squid ink and topped with wild Maltese fennel, picked up directly by Gabriele, this risotto was a favourite.

Risotto with fresh squid ink

Last, but not least, the acclaimed finger lickin’ good, risotto all’isolana. This traditional recipe from Isola della Scala in Verona goes back to 1967 and presents a fragrant risotto with pork and veal pieces spiced up with cinnamon and rosemary. The aroma of this dish was so appealing, that as soon as I could, I ran into the kitchen and helped myself with a generous portion.

Risotto all’isolana

To conclude this event, Gabriele Ferron baked the torta di riso. The recipe, inherited from his mother, includes a number of sensitive steps which I followed thoroughly during the morning’s preparation. Before sharing with you the recipe, I prefer trying it myself so that I get to know the ropes. However, I can assure you that the cake as prepared by Gabriele was ambrosial.

Rice pudding by Gabriele Ferron

Time ran fast and after the dessert and coffees people started to look forward to their bedtime. With a rice-full stomach customers headed to their homes with a 250g portion of Vialone Nano rice as a souvenir.

As the curtains draw to a close we, as Eatmania, felt that the evening worked out particularly fine. Customers were positively satisfied and Gabriele was captivated by the Maltese crowd and the collaboration he had from the Tartarun owners and staff. Everyone did a professional and dedicated job.

I would like to conclude with a phrase which Gabriele Ferron used to describe Malta and this degustation event and which is a true synopsis of this activity:

Ma’ che spettacolo!

By Karl Vassallo as told to Adam Warner

It wasn’t the scale of the place that impressed me at first, but rather the size of an event that was dedicated solely to rice, specifically risotto rice. I was at the Fiera del Riso in the village of Isola della Scala just outside Verona. A village I had the pleasure of visiting on my previous trip, where, for an entire month, suppliers of risotto rice come together and celebrate the grain.

There were participants from across the region, with each supplier competing to produce the best Risotto all’Isolana, while also treating the 500,000 visitors to many other risottos and rice based dishes over the course of the month.

I had been well and truly bitten by the risotto bug. In the months prior to the fair I had kept in regular correspondence with a number of suppliers to such an extent that I was personally invited to attend the fair, and learn about the inner workings of risotto cooking on a much larger scale than I had seen on my previous trips.

Of many risottos tasted over the 3 days, one in particular stood out. The Risotto all’Isolana; it is made with pork and veal, and spiced with rosemary and cinnamon. All the flavours carefully balanced for a real depth of flavour. I was lucky enough to be taught the recipe by Gabriele Ferron, and it gives me great pleasure to, in turn, share it with you.

Recipe: Risotto all’Isolana

Ingredients for 4 people

320 g Vialone Nano rice
750 ml beef stock
150 g pork loin, chopped
150 g lean veal, chopped
60 g butter
60 g parmesan, grated
cinnamon powder
rosemary sprig
white wine
salt & pepper

Method

Preparing a risotto all'Isolana at Risolandia

Over a low heat, melt 40 g of butter with a small sprig of rosemary. When the butter turns gold, remove the rosemary. Add the meat and increase the heat. Brown the meat and season with salt, pepper and a dash of white wine. Lower the heat and cook through.

Pour the beef stock into pan, place on the stove and bring to boil, add the rice in a cone shape. Cover and let it start boiling again.

Once the stock is boiling, with a wooden spoon gently stir the rice in a figure of 8. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and cook for 10 minutes. Check the rice and once the rice is well visible under the layer of stock, add the meat sauce and cover again until the stock has been absorbed (1-2 minutes). Remove from heat and mix gently. Add the Parmesan cheese (previously sprinkled with cinnamon), the remaining butter and delicately mix.

Let the risotto rest in the pan for 2 minutes, covered with a damp cloth. Serve with a sprig of rosemary accompanied by an Amarone di Valpolicella for a complete traditonal taste of Isola della Scala.

The Ferron company is very much a family affair and in the evenings I would spend my time at “Risolandia”, an enormous hall housing a 300 seat Risotteria headed by Gabriel Ferron’s son Diego. The team also included his brothers Maurizio and Denis and 8 other young chefs serving almost 700 risotto’s over the course of the night, with around 400 of the local speciality, Risotto all’Isolana being served.

The kitchen worked like a military operation, everyone knew their job and carried it out with such efficiency that no errors were made all night. There were a number of techniques being used to cook the risotto. The Risotto all’Isolana, using the technique in the recipe above; the risotto with Radicchio di Verona IGP and monte veronese cheese, was made with the more commonly known stirring method, where the stock is added gradually. While another delicious dish named, Riso con straccetti di manzo con funghi, formaggio e rosmarino, uses a pilaf method and Carnaroli rice, where the rice is cooked in the oven instead of on the hob.

Diego Ferron was the generalissimo of the kitchen, taking orders and passing on instructions, followed to the letter by his team, each dish cooked to perfection.

It wasn’t only risotto being served that night. There was tiramisu for desert, with a sponge made of rice flour. The rice flour gave the sponge an unusual, though not unpleasant texture and although I would be hard pressed to pick a rice flour tiramisu over the usual tiramisu it was still a well balanced desert.

However, the dish that struck me as an example of the diversity of rice was the Pasticcio di riso, a dish similar to lasagne but using pancakes made from rice flour rather than pasta sheets. A much lighter and, in my opinion, a far more satisfying version of the classic Italian dish. I have reproduced the recipe by Gabriel Ferron below, and I urge you to try it, it really is a wonderful dish.

Recipe: Pasticcio di riso

Adapted from ‘Dall’antipasto al dolce – il Riso in cucina’ by Gabriele Ferron

Ingredients for 8 people

Rice pancakes
400 ml milk, at room temperature
150 g ‘La Pila Vecia’ rice flour
2 eggs, whole
20 g vegetable oil

Ragu
2 bay leaves
40 g onion, finely chopped
40 g carrot, finely chopped
40 g celery, finely chopped
40 g bacon, finely chopped
200 g minced beef
200 g minced pork
50 g tomato paste
240 g peeled tomatoes
150 g parmesan, grated
50 g butter
red wine
flour
nutmeg, grated
salt and pepper

Béchamel sauce
500 ml milk
50 g rice flour
40 g butter
nutmeg, grated

Method

Start by preparing the rice crepes. In a bowl, beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Pour the milk, at room temperature, and stir in the vegetable oil and the rice flour. Continue to stir firmly until the mixture turns into a soft creamy batter. Let it stand for 30 minutes.

When it’s done heat a non-stick frying pan add some butter and when the pan becomes hot add a ladle of the batter and cook the crepes on both sides. Repeat process until the mixture finishes. Makes around four big pancakes.

For the ragu melt some butter, add extra virgin olive oil and the bay leaves. When hot add the finely chopped onion, carrot, and celery and fry in the pan for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a separate pan, cook the meat (minced beef, minced pork and pancetta) slowly until brown. Add some salt and a glass of red wine. Allow the wine to evaporate and then transfer the meat to the pan with the vegetables. Stir, cooking over high flame.

Add the tomato paste and tomatoes, stirring constantly. At this point add 1 litre of vegetable broth or water, stir again and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and grated nutmeg.

Whilst the ragu is cooking, make the béchamel sauce. In a saucepan melt the butter over medium heat, add the flour and whisk until the mixture is homogeneous. Remove from heat. Slowly pour the hot milk in the pan and mix well with the butter to stop it from forming lumps. Put the pan on the flame again and continue stirring with a whisk until it reaches boiling point.

Simmer for 20 minutes, adding salt and pepper and grated nutmeg to taste.

Assembly

Grease a baking tray and layer over the crepes of rice covering the bottom of the tray. Pour over some béchamel sauce to cover the crepes and then add a layer of ragu. Sprinkle with grated parmesan and scatter small pieces of butter.

Repeat the above steps to create at least 3 layers.

Finish off the surface with the béchamel, and ragu – no more crepes. Sprinkle the dish with plenty of grated parmesan and some butter. Place the dish in an oven preheated to 200 degrees and cook for 40 minutes.

When cooked, leave to rest before serving, then cut into portions and serve.

Today, after collecting information and experiences from my brother Karl, who has turned into an obsessive risotto fan, I became familiar with the Carnaroli and Vialone nano rice types.

Hence, I want to share with you the characteristics of these rice varieties. 

The Carnaroli rice is considered superfine and one of the best rice types in Italy. It excellently retains its texture whilst cooking so it is ideal to create delicate risotto recipes. However, it can be easily combined with a variety of ingredients. Carnaroli was created following a cross-breed between the Vialone and the Leoncino rice type. Its grains are large and consistent and can absorb well the flavours of the other added ingredients. The carnaroli rice is generally used for risottos, timbales, and salads

As Carnaroli rice reached our shores, following Eatmania’s introduction of Riseria Ferron products, I tried the following recipe:

Risotto with fennel and ricotta

Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 1 basic risotto recipe
• 1/2 tsp fennel seeds
• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 fennel bulbs
• sea salt
• 4 tblsp ricotta
• zest and juice of 1 lemon
• parmesan cheese

Bash up fennel seeds with a pestle and mortar turning them into a powder. Take a saucepan, add some olive oil and fry the finely chopped garlic until softened. Add fennel seeds and the fennel bulbs, finely sliced. Season with salt and pepper, cover pan with lid and leave to simmer on low heat for around 20 minutes until the fennel is soft.

Start preparing the stock and the risotto by following the instructions indicated in the basic recipe for Carnaroli rice.

Halfway through the cooking time, delicately stir in the sautéed fennel and continue with the cooking of the rice. When it’s ready add the crumbled ricotta and grated lemon zest.

Serve sprinkled with fennel tops and parmesan shavings.

Risotto fennel and ricotta

Coming to the other type, the Vialone nano, this is a variety which came to life around the 1930s in Verona and Mantova. The grains are medium sized and more rounded. It absorbs condiments well and although it increases in volume during cooking time it still keeps a firm texture and remains compact and soft. It is indicated for recipes which count on presentation like salads, risottos and rice accompaniment to fish dishes. In 2006, the Vialone nano rice obtained the IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) certification.

With the Vialone nano variety I prepared the following nutritious dish:

Risotto with artichoke hearts and lemon

Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 400gr Vialone nano rice
• 800ml home-made vegetable stock
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 6 small artichokes
• zest and juice of 1 lemon
• a bunch of fresh mint
• extra virgin olive oil
• a knob of butter
• 60g grated Parmesan cheese
• shavings of Parmesan cheese

Artichoke & lemon risotto

Wash the artichokes, cut off the top part and peel the hard leaves.  Slice them in half and remove the hairy core from the centre. Place the artichokes in a bowl with water and lemon juice until you prepare the risotto.

Prepare the vegetable stock. Click here to follow the recipe.

Following, toast the Vialone nano rice in some olive oil, add the boiling stock and cook for 10 minutes on low heat. No need to stir.

Meanwhile, take 6 halves of the artichokes and slice them thinly. In a saucepan sauté the chopped onion and add the artichoke slices and halves. Add a little water and leave to simmer for 10 minutes, whilst the rice is cooking.

Add the artichoke mixture to the risotto and cook for a couple of minutes. Remove from heat and add butter, grated parmesan, juice of half a lemon, lemon rind and torn up mint leaves.  Stir delicately and cover with a linen cloth. Leave to rest for 2 minutes. Serve with parmesan shavings.

Both varieties are impressively refined. The Carnaroli has a high amylose content thus it keeps its shape better, I prefer this type to create a charismatic risotto maybe combined with valuable ingredients like champagne, oysters, scallops, truffles, or saffron.  Then, I find the Vialone nano more adaptable with chunkier ingredients such as pork, veal, pumpkin, artichokes and other vegetables.

Carnaroli and Vialone nano rice varieties have become a must in my larder and make part of my regular diet. I would suggest you try these rice varieties and create recipes for your family and guests, then come back to us with your feedback.

For a first hand experience book your table at the Degustation: Riso and Risotto by Gabriele Ferron.

This is the first of a series of articles about my experiences whilst travelling around the risotto rice belt. My first stop was Isola della Scala, home of the Vialone nano rice, in the Veneto region – Italy.

When it comes to risotto I’m a bit of a late starter. Since I grew up in Malta I had a broad Mediterranean diet and had experienced this classic Italian dish on occasions. My flatmate in Amsterdam, who is a big fan of this dish, cooked risottos fairly often yet its appeal never really stuck. I always thought it was a labour intensive dish, rather unappealing after a hard day at work. The need for precision and attention always meant that, given the choice, I’d take pasta over risotto any day.

Last year on a trip to New York I visited Risotteria, a restaurant with a focus on risotto. Normally it would not have been my first choice, but I love the novelty of these single-item restaurants. The risotto in question, with calamari and lemon, was very good, but I acquired more than just the taste of the dish from my visit. I was impressed by the versatility and creativity of a dish with endless possibilities.

Back in Amsterdam I started cooking risotto more often. I used Arborio rice, the most common type of risotto rice found in the supermarkets over here. But I could never get it quite right. I did my research and discovered that there was more to rice than just Arborio. I became acquainted with the Vialone Nano and Carnaroli rice, both of which were rice varieties unheard of to me. From what I read they seemed to be of far superior quality than Arborio.

Due to my growing interest in rice I decided to spend some time in the Po Valley, Italy, the birthplace of risotto. I stayed in Verona for much of the time. Situated in northern Italy, it lies at the easterly point of the risotto rice belt that stretches from Torino in the west, past Milan and ends a little east of Verona. Two suppliers growing rice near the city invited me over to spend some time with them. Here I began to appreciate the Vialone Nano and Carnaroli rice varieties above all others.

View The Risotto Rice Belt in a larger map

I first met with a comparably new supplier in the scene, the owner of Riso Melotti, in Isola della Scala just south of Verona. Over a morning coffee we chatted idly, and after we took the short journey with the car to his farm. It was a magnificent area, flat and expansive. Here I learnt about the process of growing rice and also it’s processing. I think my eagerness to learn more was evident. I was offered further visits and also an open invitation to his rice paddies. For lunch we ate at the Risotteria Melotti, a restaurant owned by the Melotti family. We ate and drank at a leisurely pace all through the afternoon. The young chef kept coming with a never-ending supply of rice and risotto dishes.  So to tantalise your taste buds the menu for that afternoon was:

An antipasto of ‘Melottino’, a salami with toasted rice, some cacciotina cheese known as ‘Melottina’, accompanied by some grissini. The primi consisted of: Grilled rice polenta with rabbit stew, a rice piadina with salami ‘Melottino’ and cacciottina ‘Mellottina’, and a rice strudel with vegetables and cream of Topinambur. The main dishes were three risottos: Risotto with broccoli and peperoncino, the famous Risotto all’Isolana and a risotto with scallops and sun dried tomatoes. For dessert I had a tiramisu made with plum cake prepared with flour of Vialone nano rice by Melotti. We finished the meal with the ubiquitous espresso before I left for Vinitaly, and spent there a lazy evening of wine tasting.

The second of the suppliers I visited was Riseria Ferron, headed by Gabriele Ferron, an internationally renowned chef, nicknamed the ‘King of Rice’. His empire extends to a restaurant located in the building of a 17th century flourmill, the Pila Vecia.

The risotto I tasted there was without doubt the best I have ever eaten. His degustation menu was a showcase of both Ferron’s skills as a cook, the versatility of the ingredient and an example of how the habitat of the rice paddies can be used to supply the kitchen with more than just the rice. One risotto in particular was made with the carp and other fish that live in the rice paddies.

Perhaps the most amazing thing about the whole experience was that Gabriele Ferron and his son, Diego, prepared 8 separate dishes for around 80 people, having each plate cooked to perfection.

The menu for the degustation event at Pila Vecia, held during the Vinitaly wine fair was the following:

Degusation Menu by Gabriele Ferron at Pila Vecia during VinItaly

It was in Ferron’s kitchen that I learnt new techniques on how to cook risotto. From that moment risotto was no longer identified as a dish that required constant stirring and attention. One of Ferron’s techniques in particular, the one I’m sharing with you below, is a method that doesn’t require stirring or adding of stock slowly. It does not even take 30 minutes plus to cook! However it’s a technique that requires exact measurements.

Risotto is a dish that is often underrated and misunderstood. It is rich and creamy yet delicate and often lighter than pasta. With the addition of few ingredients you can create a diffusion of flavours with real depth. Its versatility makes it ideal as a gluten free, classic, store, cupboard, comfort food but it is also a dish that can thrill and impress. A risotto can be anything you want, convenient or complicated, quick or slow; but always one of the most satisfying dishes to cook and eat.

Here is the recipe that I now use on a weekly basis. It seems fairly simple but the measurements and timing are critical for the success of the dish.

Recipe: Risotto Parmigiano Reggiano

This is a basic risotto recipe that can be used as a base for most of your risotto dishes.

Ingredients for 4 people:

• 320g Carnaroli rice
• 700ml vegetable stock
• 60g parmiggiano reggiano, grated
• ½ onion, finely chopped
• knob of butter
• extra stock

Making the vegetable stock

Roughly chop 3 celery sticks, 2 medium-sized carrots and 1 large onion. Throw all ingredients in a large pan, add 2 litres of water, a bay leaf and bring to boil. Simmer for 40 minutes, uncovered. Using a spoon/sieve, remove the foam that rises to the top. When it’s done, add salt to taste and then remove from heat and pass through a sieve.

Preparing the risotto

Pour the stock in a pan and bring to boil. In the meantime heat some olive oil in another large pan and add the onion. Cook until transparent; do not let the onion turn brown. Add the rice and toast until rice is very hot. Test with your fingers (careful though!). When hot enough, add the boiling stock at one go. Mix gently, cover and cook on very low flame for 13 minutes.

It is important that the stock is boiling hot. Let the rice cook until the stock is absorbed. Taste the rice. If it is not ready and all the water has dried out, add some more boiling stock and let it absorb it again. Taste the rice again.

Remove from heat and add the butter and the cheese. Mix gently until the cheese and butter have melted. If it is too sticky you can add some extra broth for a creamier texture. Put the lid on and cover with damp cloth for 2 minutes. The flavours will mix and create a simple wonderful dish.

It can also be experimented with by adding an older type of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, extra stock for more creaminess and maybe some grated cinnamon mixed in with the cheese. This simple dish then becomes quite sophisticated.

In the next article I will recount my visit to The Rice Fair in Isola Della Scala – a celebration of rice from Veneto region, together with the recipe of the famous risotto all’Isolana.

I also would like to hear from you. So please do let me know what type of rice you use for risotto and what technique you use to cook the dish.

Risotto Parmigiano Reggiano

Ingredients for 4 people:

• 320g Carnaroli rice
• 700ml vegetable stock
• 60g parmiggiano reggiano, grated
• ½ onion, finely chopped
• knob of butter
• extra stock

Making the vegetable stock

Roughly chop 3 celery sticks, 2 medium-sized carrots and 1 large onion. Throw all ingredients in a large pan, add 2 litres of water, a bay leaf and bring to boil. Simmer for 40 minutes, uncovered. Using a spoon/sieve, remove the foam that rises to the top. When it’s done, add salt to taste and then remove from heat and pass through a sieve.

Preparing the risotto

Pour the stock in a pan and bring to boil. In the meantime heat some olive oil in another large pan and add the onion. Cook until transparent; do not let the onion turn brown. Add the rice and toast until rice is very hot. Test with your fingers (careful though!). When hot enough, add the boiling stock at one go. Mix gently, cover and cook on very low flame for 13 minutes.

It is important that the stock is boiling hot. Let the rice cook until the stock is absorbed. Taste the rice. If it is not ready and all the water has dried out, add some more boiling stock and let it absorb it again. Taste the rice again.

Remove from heat and add the butter and the cheese. Mix gently until the cheese and butter have melted. If it is too sticky you can add some extra broth for a creamier texture. Put the lid on and cover with damp cloth for 2 minutes. The flavours will mix and create a simple wonderful dish.

It can also be experimented with by adding an older type of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, extra stock for more creaminess and maybe some grated cinnamon mixed in with the cheese. This simple dish then becomes quite sophisticated.

I had the following 3 different types of risottos planned, all to be prepared with seasonal local produce: (a) risotto with pumpkin, (b) risotto with leeks and pancetta and (c) risotto with cauliflower.

To start with I prepared enough vegetable stock for the two of the dishes. Therefore I used 5 celery stalks, 1 1/2 onion and 5 small carrots. You need to put everything in 3 litres of cold water and bring to boil. Once boiling, simmer for 30/40 minutes, taking care of scooping out the foam that forms at the top of the stock. Once it’s ready add some salt to taste and mix thoroughly. Sieve gently into a bowl and put it aside.  For the risotto with leek and pancetta I had some frozen chicken stock that I defrosted the day before.

Since lately I have been experimenting with quite a variety of risottos I am now making stock on a weekly basis. This can be frozen and then used according to exigencies for a variety of other dishes like soup, risotto, pies, etcetera.

So for the first risotto, you will require the following:

Risotto with pumpkin

Risotto with pumpkin

Ingredients for 4 people

• 320 g vialone nano rice
• 700 ml vegetable stock
• 400 g pumpkin flesh
• 1/2 onion
• 40 g extra virgin olive oil
• 1 knob of butter
• 60 g grated parmesan
• parsley
• salt & pepper

Finely chop the onion and dice the pumpkin. Add the chopped onion to the frying pan and cook until transparent, then add the pumpkin flesh and season with salt and pepper to taste. Let everything cook until you obtain a soft mixture with pieces of pumpkin still apparent.

In a casserole pan toast the rice with 20g of extra virgin olive oil. Add all the stock at one go and mix delicately. Cover with the lid and put the flame to a minimum. Let rice cook for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes add the pumpkin sauce and finish off cooking the rice (approximately 2 minutes). Taste the rice to see if it is done and once ready add the butter, the grated parmesan and finely chopped parsley.

Serve with with a piece of pumpkin or grilled pancetta.

Risotto with leeks and pancetta

Risotto with leeks and pancetta

Ingredients for 4 people

• 320 g vialone nano rice
• 700 ml chicken stock
• 1 leek
• 40 g pancetta
• 40 g extra virgin olive oil
• 1 spoonful of butter
• 40 g grana, grated
• salt & pepper

Blanch the leek, cut julienne and cook with 20g of extra virgin olive oil. Add the pancetta, cut in thin strips and fry until pink in colour.

In a casserole pan toast the rice with 20g of extra virgin olive oil. Add all the stock at one go and mix delicately. Cover with the lid and put the flame to a minimum.

When the rice is cooked, add the leek and pancetta, switch off the flame and mix in the butter and the grated parmesan. Add some freshly minced pepper.

Serve with grilled strips of pancetta.

Risotto with cauliflower

Ingredients for 4 people

• 320 g vialone nano rice
• 700 ml vegetable stock
• 300 g cauliflower
• 1 garlic
• 40 g onion
• 40 g extra virgin olive oil
• 100 ml milk
• 1 spoonful of butter
• 40 g grana, grated
• nutmeg, grated
• parsley
• salt & pepper

Chop the cauliflower in pieces, the size of a walnut, and wash them carefully. Set aside until dry.

Finely chop the onion and the garlic clove and add them to a pan with 20g extra virgin olive oil. Cook until transparent.

Add the cauliflower, add salt and pepper to taste, some grated nutmeg, and finally add the milk and cook, on a low flame for 10 mintues, until cauliflower is tender but does not crumble.

In a casserole pan toast the rice with 20g of extra virgin olive oil. Add all the stock at one go and mix delicately. Cover with the lid and put the flame to a minimum.

Once risotto is cooked add the cauliflower sauce, switch off the flame and blend in the butter and the grated parmesan.

Serve with a scatter of finely chopped parsley.

These recipes can be found in the book called ‘Il Riso in Cucina” by Gabriele Ferron.

The combination of these three dishes was excellent and my personal favorite dish was the cauliflower risotto. Overall, I am not a big fan of cauliflower but the smell coming up to your nostrils while having a forkful of risotto was delicious. The nutmeg plays a role in the smell, it actually gives a nice twist. Also the cauliflower florets hides in well between the white grains of the vialone nano making it appear more appetitising!

My last entry of the primi festival in Foligno is all about rice! One of the degustation menu tavernas was catered by chef Gabriele Ferron, the king of risotto! The menus varied depending on the day and seatings required booking and attendance by a fixed time. This was required, as we later discovered, because the rice is cooked there instantly and only preparation is done ahead.

Degustation menu at Ferron's taverna

As we entered the taverna we realised that it was full to its brim! As we hungrily waited for the food to start being served we heard people whispering to each other positive comments about Ferron and his products. Many said they come to the festival annually but eat only at Ferron, others insisted that the food was amazingly prepared at the moment and everything was so fresh and tasty! Till then our expectations rose sky high so we were anxious to taste the food… menu 1 was being served at our evening and thus we enjoyed the following exquisite dishes. Must also add that this particular taverna served the food in terracotta plates and bowls and used proper cutlery whereas other tavernas had everything disposable. This added a further real touch of mediavality  to the degustation event.

So, here’s the food in pictures!

The polenta, although not Dad’s favourite, turned out to be a rich juicy mash topped with creamy salted cod… too tasty to refuse!

Polenta with cod alla vicentina

Risotto with Montello herbs and Casatella Trevigiana

This risotto was very delicate; the casatella trevigiana is a sweet milky cheese which produced an excellently creamy risotto. The herbs from Montello, a region of Verona, added a wild flavour to the dish.

Pilaf rice with chicken and wild mushrooms

The wild mushrooms created a simple yet tangy dish which flavoured the perfectly cooked rice.

This high quality menu was washed down with a sparkling wine from Veneto and concluded with a small square of rice nougat which was just right after this enriching experience!

We wrapped up the Foligno festival very positively and returned home with a delicate aroma, and a couple of products from Ferron which we are trying out in our culinary adventures! Must describe this festival as a cultivating journey through the products and dishes of the various Italian regions and must say Thanks Dad for providing me with such opportunity – it surely spiced up my culinary knowledge in primi piatti!

Just a small note: don’t dare think that we bought only products from Ferron since we checked in a luggage of 5 kilos and boarded our return flight with 30 kilos of food