Day 1-2 / 10th & 11th April

This time the events were spread out on 4 days. We kicked off the Riso e Risotti campaign at the Institute of Tourism Studies with a lecture delivered to the final year chef students by Gabriele Ferron.

The crowd of youngsters gathered in the hall, murmuring and circumspectly waiting for the appearance of their special guest. The atmosphere reminded me so much of my student days. The mood was set by the radiant face of Gabriele as he had the floor and was recounting his affiliation with rice. It was easy to sense his passion as he was disseminating knowledge about the process of cultivating, harvesting and milling rice in his territory. His curious questions addressed to students like how many grains there are in 100g of rice immediately captured their attention. By the end of the first session it felt like Gabriele had got them under his rice spell.

It was time for the practical part of the lecture. We moved to the well-equipped kitchen of the Institute of Tourism Studies where Gabriele Ferron divulged the characteristics which distinguish the Vialone Nano rice variety from the Carnaroli species. He continued by demonstrating two distinct methods of cooking risotto.

Gabriele’s lifetime experience helped him develop a particular method for cooking risotto – the no stirring technique. This no stir method involves toasting the rice in some extra virgin olive oil, adding double the amount of rice of boiling broth and leaving the rice to cook for 10 minutes, covered with the lid and without stirring.  You can then add the condiment to your liking. In this instance, the Master Chef combined this Carnaroli risotto with a mixture of finely chopped herbs including basil, mint and wild fennel tops. The aroma emanating from these herbs was overwhelming.

Successively, the traditional rice cooking method was presented by Gabriele Ferron.  The Vialone Nano rice variety was used to prepare the traditional recipe of Isola della Scala, in Verona, the Risotto all’Isolana. This fragrant risotto is combined with lean pork, veal, rosemary and a hint of cinnamon. For this method the rice was added to a pan of boiling broth, stirred once and cooked on a very low heat for 15 minutes. The risotto dish is concluded by adding the meat sauce and delicately beating in butter and grated cheese.

The students, having witnessed this cooking session by a rice master chef and tasted the differently prepared risottos looked satisfied and fascinated. But are they prepared to participate in the Risotto Contest? Who will fascinate the eyes and tastes of Gabriele Ferron with their risotto recipe? The winners of this contest will attend and cook at the most prestigious manifestation of rice in Italy – the Fiera del Riso.

A similar presentation introducing the range of products produced by Riseria Ferron and demonstrating the different cooking techniques was held the following day for restaurant owners and chefs by Gabriele Ferron. The event was also held at the Institute of Tourism Studies.

Day 3 – 4 / 12th & 13th April

Although it was our second Riso e Risotti degustation I was trembling with excitement. The menu was finalised, the ingredients taken care of by the staff at Tartarun Restaurant. In the afternoon, Gabriele Ferron and my brother started preparations in the kitchen together with chef James Schiavone from Tartarun. I was in charge of the bookings. Some bookings were cancelled at the last minute and this kind of dropped my morale. It’s only until I realised that such things happen all the time to restaurant owners that I got back the energy and vibe to make the evening a success.

Guests started coming in at 8pm. They were welcomed with a Prosecco cocktail and enticed by a selection of rice crackers topped with sun-dried tomato pate, local bigilla paste (cream of beans with garlic, parsley and olive oil) and chicken pate with onions, celery and carrots.

At around half eight Gabriele Ferron appeared to make his introduction. His short but glamorous speech pointed out the importance of rice in the world and its symbol of prosperity and fertility. He spoke highly of Malta and was adamant that the combination of rice with local ingredients such as fish, vegetables and herbs will produce delicious and genuine results in the kitchen.

Then off he was to start serving the series of degustation dishes. An arancina with squid ink placed on a tomato and chilli relish was served as an amuse-bouche. The first course consisted of mixed vegetables and red mullet fillets battered with a rice flour mixture and deep-fried. This warm salad was served on a selection of leaves and dressed with home-made citrus mayonnaise.  The salad was followed by a rice flour creamy polenta topped with fresh clams and a tomato concasse. Next in line was a train of 3 diverse risotto dishes: a carnaroli risotto with fresh basil, mint and wild fennel; a carnaroli risotto with cauliflower puree and baked scallop; and a vialone nano risotto with artichoke hearts and fresh anchovy fillets. The degustation was concluded with a classic tiramisu however prepared with cream of rice.

On Friday, we were lucky not to get any cancellations and the restaurant was jam-packed. Everyone seemed geared up for the weekend and the atmosphere was somewhat livelier. Or, was I actually more relaxed?

All in all the two degustation evenings were a complete success. The comments we received were auspicious. I feel that these days spent in the name of rice were rewarding and look forward to have similar events coming up.

I would like to thank all the sponsors and contributors who helped us in setting up these events especially Riseria Ferron, Tartarun Restaurant, Hotel Santana and M. Demajo Wines & Spirits.

But most of all our big thank you goes to Gabriele Ferron who accepted our invitation to come to Malta for the second time and share with us the passion and knowledge he nourishes for his amour-propre – rice!

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Ingredients for 4 people:

• 320g Carnaroli rice
• 2 cloves garlic
• 4 shallots
• Approx. 800ml prawn stock
• 150g portobello mushrooms
• 8 slices speck
• 160g peeled prawns
• 120g Parmesan cheese, grated
• 60g buttter
• Truffle oil
• Red chard leaves, to decorate (optional)

Prawn stock

• 800g prawn shells
• 100g Carrots, finely chopped
• 100g Onions, finely chopped
• 80g Celery, finely chopped
• 80g Fennel, finely chopped
• 20g Garlic, crushed
• 40g Tomato paste
• 200ml White wine
• 2 ltr Water
• 500ml Tomato juice
• Bouquet garni
• Pepper corns

To prepare the prawn stock:

1. Sweat the prawn shells in olive oil until golden. Remove shells and drain the fat.
2. In the same pan sweat the celery, onion, fennel and carrots in some olive oil and butter. Add the garlic and sweat for about 5 mins, add the tomato paste. Cook for another 4 to 5 minutes, add the white wine and reduce by half.
3. Add the shells, bouquet garni, water, and tomato juice, bring to boil and skim any fat from surface.
4. Simmer for 45 minutes. When ready pass well through a fine sieve.
5. Place the stock back on the stove on low heat, and skim the remaining impurities, taste and season with salt, sugar and fresh lemon juice. Keep boiling for the risotto.

Risotto Mare e Monti

To prepare the risotto:

1. In a thick bottom pan, pour a few tablespoons of cooking oil. Add the rice, lightly toast. After a minute add 700 ml of boiling stock at once. Mix gently and simmer on low heat for approximately 13 minutes.
2. In a separate pan pour some oil, when the pan is hot add the garlic and shallots, toss occasionally, add the Portobello mushrooms, until lightly brown. Add the prawns and sauté.
3. When the rice is ready. Add the butter and Parmesan. Add ½ a ladle of stock to make it as runny as you like. Stir well. Place a lid on the pan and allow to sit for 2 minutes. This stage is very important when making a good risotto. Taste and season. The risotto should be creamy.
4. Fold in the prawns and mushrooms mixture and plate.
5. Garnish with the speck a drizzle of truffle oil and leaves of red chard.

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Our first contribution comes from Chef James Schiavone from Tartarun Restaurant in Marsaxlokk, a vegetarian risotto recipe hailing the sweetness of carrots and the earthy flavour of mushrooms using the Vialone Nano rice type.

Ingredients for 4 people:

• 320g  Vialone nano rice
• 300g carrot puree
• 60g butter
• 150g Parmesan shavings
• Approx. 800ml of vegetable stock
• 4 baby carrots peeled, cut in four
• 160g oyster mushrooms, cleaned
• Thyme flowers

Carrot puree

• 1 white onion
• ½ a leek
• 8 carrots
• Knob of butter
• Extra virgin olive oil

To prepare the carrot puree:

1. Chop up the onion, leek and carrots.
2. Pour the oil in a pan and sweat the vegetables without browning them.
3. Add enough water just to cover the vegetables.
4. Bring to boil and keep simmering until carrots are cooked.
5. Add the butter.
6. Blend and pass through a fine strainer to form a puree.

Vegetable stock

• 1 fennel bulb
• 2 white onions
• 1 leek
• 6 carrots
• ½ head of garlic
• 1 bay leaf
• Thyme
• Flat parsley
• Peppercorns

To prepare the vegetable stock:

1. Roughly chop the vegetables and put them in a large pot.
2. Pour cold water just enough to cover the vegetables.
3. Bring to boil and simmer for about 20 minutes
4. Pass through a fine strainer and keep the stock aside.
5. Any leftover stock can be frozen.

Carrot and parmesan risotto with roasted baby carrots and oyster mushrooms

To prepare the risotto:

1. In a thick bottom pan, pour a few tablespoons of cooking oil. Add the rice, toast lightly, and after a minute it will look slightly translucent. Then pour a ladle of the boiling stock. Lower heat and simmer for a minute.
2. Add the carrot puree, stir well, and then add another ladle of stock. Keep adding a ladle of stock at a time, stirring and letting the creamy starch ooze out of the rice. Allow each ladle of stock to be absorbed before adding the next.
3. Place the baby carrots in a dish, season with olive oil, salt and pepper and put in a hot oven until nicely roasted.
4. In a separate pan pour some oil, when the pan is hot add the roughly chopped oyster mushrooms. Toss the mushrooms and season with salt and fresh thyme.
5. Taste the rice. It should be soft but with a slight bite. When ready remove from the heat. I like my risotto slightly runny so when the rice is ready I add an extra ½ ladle of stock. Add the butter and Parmesan. Stir well and taste for seasoning. Risotto should be nice and creamy.
6. Place a lid on the pan and allow to sit for 2 minutes. This stage is very important to make a good risotto.
7. Plate the risotto and garnish with the roasted baby carrots, oyster mushrooms, some parmesan shavings and radish leaves.

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It’s easy to get it wrong and end up with a messy, mushy mass on your plate. But if you learn about the three decisive elements of how to make the perfect risotto then you can enjoy the versatility of this Italian dish.

Risotto was not frequently on my menu. The necessity for 20 minutes of continuous stirring, adding a ladle of stock at a time until all the liquid has absorbed, came as a deterrent. It was only when my brother headed to the Po Valley, in Italy, after falling in love with a risotteria in New York, that I got dominated by the risotto vibe.

My determination to learn how to cook a perfect risotto made me wander after the Italian rice master chef Gabriele Ferron. His close acquaintance with rice and risotto introduced me to the unknown and heightened my curiosity. I also ended up visiting the annual Fiera del Riso in Isola della Scala, Verona. After extensive reading and testing I have now accomplished what in my unpretentious opinion makes a proper risotto.

The rice variety

Move on from Arborio, the most popular variety. I choose the Vialone Nano and the Superfino Carnaroli varieties for my risotto. The Vialone Nano variety with its rounded, shorter kernels creates a soft, creamy risotto with a firm texture. The Carnaroli excellently retains its shape and produces a looser risotto. I pick the Vialone Nano for a hearty risotto with meat or vegetables and combine the Carnaroli with seafood or prestigious ingredients like scallops or saffron.

The broth

Forget the stock cube. The rice will absorb broth whilst cooking, so it stands to reason that a genuinely prepared broth will give the rice a superior taste. My preference is for vegetable broth since I find that its delicate taste does not override the flavours of the other ingredients. It’s easy to prepare – you need 1 onion, 2 carrots, 3 celery stalks, 1 bay leaf and salt. Add all the ingredients in 2 litres of cold water, bring to boil and leave to simmer for 30 minutes. Alternatively you can prepare chicken or fish broth depending on the accompanying ingredients of your risotto. Any remaining broth can be frozen.

The technique

Do not stir continuously. Kitchen gourmets may find this a fat heresy, but I learnt to prepare my risotto using Gabriele Ferron’s technique, and that means no stirring. The rice is stirred only as soon as the broth is added and in the final stage for the mantecatura.  I find this method a guarantee for no-gluey risotto dishes: (quantities are for 4 servings)

1. Heat some extra virgin olive oil,
   add a finely chopped onion and cook until the onion is transparent making sure that it does not burn
2. Add 400g of rice and toast it on a moderate heat for a couple of minutes to seal the starch
3. Pour 900ml boiling broth at one go and stir delicately with a flat wooden spoon
4. Cover the pan and put on a very low heat for 10 minutes
5. Prepare the condiment separately and add to the rice cooking for another 2 minutes without stirring
6. Turn off the heat and amalgamate a knob of butter and 40g grated parmesan cheese
7. You can add more boiling broth if the rice is not as creamy as you desire
8. Season with salt & pepper
9. Leave to rest for a couple of minutes covered with a damp cloth and serve immediately

The recipes

• Risotto with broad beans and pancetta
• Risotto with prawns and rocket leaves

For more recipes click here.

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The delicate prawn taste combined with the tangy flavor of the fresh rocket leaves produce a well-balanced risotto.

Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 320g Carnaroli rice
• 700ml vegetable stock
• 300g frozen prawns (Can be gladly substituted with fresh prawns)
• a bunch of fresh rocket leaves
• 1 garlic clove
• extra virgin olive oil
• ½ glass dry white wine
• chili pepper
• knob of butter
• 40g grated parmesan
• salt

Prepare the rice

1. Heat some extra virgin olive oil, add a finely chopped onion and cook until the onion is transparent making sure that it does not burn
2. Add 320g of rice and toast it on a moderate heat for a couple of minutes to seal the starch
3. Pour 700ml boiling broth at one go and stir delicately with a flat wooden spoon
4. Cover the pan and put on a very low heat for 10 minutes

In the meantime, cook the prawns in a saucepan with some extra virgin olive oil and a crushed garlic clove. When the prawns are done, remove the garlic and add some chili pepper. Pour the wine and leave to evaporate.

Add the mixture to the rice and cook for further 2 minutes. Blend in the grated parmesan and butter and leave risotto to rest for a couple of minutes covered with a damp cloth. Add the finely chopped rocket leaves and serve.

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Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 400g Vialone Nano rice
• 900ml vegetable broth
• 200g fresh broad beans, peeled and blanched
• 150g pancetta, cubed
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• extra virgin olive oil
• knob of butter
• 40g grated parmesan cheese
• ½ glass dry white wine
• mint
• salt & pepper

Prepare the rice:

1. Heat some extra virgin olive oil
2. Add 400g of rice and toast it on a moderate heat for a couple of minutes to seal the starch
3. Pour 900ml boiling broth at one go and stir delicately with a flat wooden spoon
4. Cover the pan and put on a very low heat for 10 minutes

Stir in delicately the pancetta and broad bean mixture and cook the rice for another 2 minutes. Incorporate well the grated parmesan and butter, cover the pan and leave risotto to rest for a couple of minutes, covered with a damp cloth. Serve with mint leaves and seasoned with freshly ground black pepper.

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Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 400g Vialone Nano (Riseria Ferron) rice*
• 800ml vegetable stock (I make my own with 2 carrots, 1 celery, 1 onion and 2 litres of water – simmer for 30 minutes)
• 2 small onions, finely chopped
• 1 celery stick
• 1 bay leaf
• 150g Maltese sausage
• 150g pumpkin, cut into small cubes
• 100g chestnuts, roasted and peeled
• 30g grated parmesan cheese
• 30g butter
• Extra virgin olive oil

*Ferron rice is a product imported from Verona exclusively by Eatmania

1. Finely chop one onion and celery stick. Pour some extra virgin olive oil into a casserole and cook the onion and celery for 5 minutes together with the bay leaf. Add the pumpkin cubes, crumbled sausage meat and the chestnuts and cook for a further 10 minutes.
2. In a large deep pan, pour 2 tablespoons olive oil and cook the other finely chopped onion until soft. Add the rice until heated through and pour all the boiling stock at one go. Lower heat and simmer rice for 10 minutes or as indicated on the packet instructions. Add the chestnut and sausage mixture to the risotto. Mix well.
3. Remove from heat, add butter and parmesan and stir. Cover pan with lid and leave to rest for 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

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So, for lunch on Saturday I prepared the following recipe:

Risotto with yellow peppers

Ingredients for 4 persons:

• 320g carnaroli rice
• 700ml vegetable stock
• 2 yellow peppers
• 4 tomatoes
• 1 garlic clove
• 2 onions
• 60g chopped emmenthal cheese
• extra virgin olive oil
• salt & pepper

In a saucepan, pour some olive oil add the onion, garlic, peppers and tomatoes. Season with salt and leave to cook for about 30 minutes.

In a large casserole pour some olive oil, add the other finely chopped onion and when transparent add the rice. Toast the rice until heated through.

Add the boiling vegetable stock at one go, mix delicately and cover the casserole. Cook on a very low flame for around 12 minutes. Just before serving add the pepper mixture, a knob of butter and the cheese.

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Green asparagus

Ingredients for 4 persons:

For the stock:

• 2 litres cold water
• 1 onion
• celery
• 2 carrots
• salt

Asparagus risotto

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Gabriele, with his Italian charm, makes you feel immediately at ease. As we drove to Marsaxlokk, to our first location of the degustation, Gabriele explained the plan for the day, making sure that everything will be ready by the time the customers arrive. As he took control of the impeccably clean kitchen of Tartarun restaurant, the rice master, now in his full chef uniform, picked up the knives, pots and pans and started to work.

We went through the degustation menu together with chef of Tartarun, James Schiavone. James proudly exhibited the selection of freshly bought fish as required for the occasion and made sure Gabriele was provided with necessary tools and ingredients.  For the rest of the day, Gabriele and James worked head to head to prepare the three different stocks, the dessert and all that was needed to assemble the dishes on the menu.

As seating time approached, customers started to gather at the bar. Whilst incomers were enjoying an aperitif, the atmosphere in the kitchen was orderly and calm. Gabriele was sipping on a glass of prosecco whilst the waiting staff strolled out with the amouse bouche. This consisted of crackers made from rice flour and topped with three different spreads: cream of green tomatoes; chickpea & olive oil puree and a pate of almond & sweet peppers. 

Soon after, when the crowd got larger, Chef Gabriele Ferron appeared to make his introduction. He explained how from all over the world, people ask him to visit their country to share with them the culture of rice. Rice, he said, should be appreciated worldwide for its nutritional value and significance.  Gabriele amusingly explained why rice is thrown at two people who have just got married. He describes rice as a symbol of love, fertility, prosperity, well-being and happiness.

His speech was closed with a deafening applause. Then, smiling customers were accompanied to their seats and introduced to the wine pairing selection provided by M. Demajo Wines & Spirits.

The degustation menu kicked off with the Pesce fritto: prawns, calamari, squid, and a red mullet fillet were coated in a batter made from rice flour and deep-fried. Meanwhile, I was hovering gently around the serving hall to collect feedback and also scrambling in and out of the kitchen to peck at the fritto extras. The amazing characteristic of rice flour is that it does not absorb the oil. The fried fish leaves no trace of oil on your fingertips and there is no greasy trail as you munch it down your throat. So, thumbs up for the antipasto!

As I peeped into the now bustling kitchen, Gabriele and his team were preparing the primo. With an enormous pan resting between his arms, Gabriele was delicately whisking the polenta. The white polenta, made from rice flour, was served with fresh pan-fried barracuda and a tomato concasse.

Circling around the seating area, after the polenta was served, I could not figure out the perplexed expression on the face of the public. As I discreetly fished for compliments, (sorry for being humble but truthful) I reckoned that many were not familiar with the word polenta. Others knew that it was that yellow sticky mass they usually see on Italian TV programmes, which appears unappetising for many.  Despite of the fear of the unknown, it was evident, that after the first spoonful everyone scraped this soft and digestible cream off their bowls. The polenta turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Preparing 4 different risottos for around 60 people is no piece of cake. Yet, Gabriele and co. managed this task perfectly well. After the light polenta, 4 portions of risotto were served at approximately 15 minute intervals. Out with the risotto artichokes and Mediterranean prawns first! A succulent prawn topped up the carnaroli rice, which had absorbed all the flavours of the pink prawn stock prepared that morning. The fleshy artichoke hearts complimented the dish.

Next in line was the delicate scallop and sparkling wine risotto. Toasted with a prosecco from Veneto and cooked in boiling fish stock this risotto was seductively served with a shallow-fried scallop nested in its shell.

In the waiting intervals of the train of risottos, I was moving around the restaurant chatting with people I knew and also introducing myself to new faces. With fingers crossed, I was curious to know whether everything was to their liking. Luckily, I collected only positive comments. Eaters were mystified by the consistency of the rice. In Malta, risotto meant that heavy gluey mixture made from Arborio rice. The rice used by Gabriele Ferron in the served dishes was unfamiliar to most of the attendees. Two of the finest rice varieties were cooked at this degustation event: the superfine Carnaroli and the Vialone Nano. I suggest you read this article for more information on these varieties.

So, another 2 risottos were still to be served. Although people were starting to feel full, no one resisted the black risotto. Blended with fresh squid ink and topped with wild Maltese fennel, picked up directly by Gabriele, this risotto was a favourite.

Last, but not least, the acclaimed finger lickin’ good, risotto all’isolana. This traditional recipe from Isola della Scala in Verona goes back to 1967 and presents a fragrant risotto with pork and veal pieces spiced up with cinnamon and rosemary. The aroma of this dish was so appealing, that as soon as I could, I ran into the kitchen and helped myself with a generous portion.

To conclude this event, Gabriele Ferron baked the torta di riso. The recipe, inherited from his mother, includes a number of sensitive steps which I followed thoroughly during the morning’s preparation. Before sharing with you the recipe, I prefer trying it myself so that I get to know the ropes. However, I can assure you that the cake as prepared by Gabriele was ambrosial.

Time ran fast and after the dessert and coffees people started to look forward to their bedtime. With a rice-full stomach customers headed to their homes with a 250g portion of Vialone Nano rice as a souvenir.

As the curtains draw to a close we, as Eatmania, felt that the evening worked out particularly fine. Customers were positively satisfied and Gabriele was captivated by the Maltese crowd and the collaboration he had from the Tartarun owners and staff. Everyone did a professional and dedicated job.

I would like to conclude with a phrase which Gabriele Ferron used to describe Malta and this degustation event and which is a true synopsis of this activity:

Ma’ che spettacolo!

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